Thread: Picture Frames - Router and Jig?

Any quality router will be suitable for use on the Leigh jig (by quality I am refering to DeWalt, Makita, Bosch etc), but I find that either fixed base or "D" handled routers are easier to use on jigs. Anything made for or by Americans will have these type of routers in mind. Plunge routers tend to be too top heavy for precision edge or jig work except when the jig is designed from the outset to need the plunge facility.

I have a Makita 3601B that I use pretty much exclusively for jig work. These are often available on Ebay for a reasonable price, you can still buy them brand new and spares are easy to get hold of. The baseplate of the tool has a threaded hole which I'm pretty sure takes all the US style threaded template guides (which you will need for the Leigh).

Thanks for the information Chief Tiff will research those Routers - I am looking at the handheld at the moment.. Think'll also stick with the Leigh Jig to work around as its gets so many great reviews.

If you click on the Ebay link in my post the router there is in VGC and I believe worth the price, unfortunately there are only a few hours to go before the auction ends.

Please don't feel I'm trying to put pressure on you; I just happened to spot that machine while I was doing a bit of researching for you.

All the best with whatever you decide.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Plunge routers tend to be too top heavy for precision edge or jig work except when the jig is designed from the outset to need the plunge facility.

I've used three different plunge routers on a Leigh Jig without the slightest notion that any were top heavy or in any way unsuited to the task.

Originally Posted by Wizened of Oz

I've used three different plunge routers on a Leigh Jig without the slightest notion that any were top heavy or in any way unsuited to the task.

Can you tell me which fixed based or D-handled router you've also used on a Leigh? If you've only ever used a plunge router on this type of jig then you don't have much of a basis for comparison. A plunge router will of course function perfectly well on a dovetail jig, a fixed base router will perform better .

The baseplate surface area on a plunge router is usually the same size or slightly smaller than the cross-sectional area of the router body whereas fixed base routers have a much larger baseplate. Their motors are also shorter and fatter; a plunge router's motor needs to be taller and skinnier to accomodate the plunge pillars on either side of it. Finally, the handles on a plunge router tend to be fitted higher up than on a fixed base. Therefore, a plunge router has a higher centre of gravity and a smaller baseplate than a fixed base; ergo if you swap between them on the same task, one is going to feel more "top heavy".

I have five routers, three are used for freehand work; a 1/2" plunge, a 1/4" plunge and a 1/2" D-handle. The D-handle is the only one that goes near my dovetail jigs or for cutting decorative edges. Plunge routers are really best suited when the baseplate is fully in contact with the workpiece and you actually need to plunge the cutter into the wood. Circle cutting, stopped trenches/grooves, lettering, these are why the plunge router was invented; a fixed base is pretty crap at those. But for jig/edge work? A fixed base wipes its bum with a plunge!

Put one of these on either type of router and they handle the work even better when you are working with half of the router base not sitting on the work.

True; the fence on all the Triton routers can be used for the same purpose.