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Thread: Router Mill

  1. #1
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    Default Router Mill

    Got given several interesting bits of desert gum so decided to explore the end grain of this timber by making a router mill.

    For those of you that don't know what a router mill is, the idea is to set up a large flat/level moveable platform to move your router systematically over pieces and use a cutter that works on the horizontal rather than the vertical. You can then use it to flatten/level/surface pieces/panels and do interesting work with end grain.

    Photos 1 & 2 shows basic setup from either end. Its built on a crapiata and 19mm Al square tube frame with 3/8" cranked threaded rods driving the Al/MDF router channel across the piece.
    - The mill is 900 mm long and 790 mm wide so I should be able to handle some interesting sized pieces of timber.
    - The frame is held to my bench by my front vice and at the back had 4 channels milled into the frame which slip into 4 , 3/8" bolts connected to the bench frame, so it's well and truly locked down, but a flip of the vice handle and loosening the 3/8" bench bolts and it comes right off. Undoing the 4 bolts at the corners and the whole thing collapses down for easy storage.
    - The main 19 mm Al square tube runners are supported vertically on threaded rods so they can be leveled.
    -The Al cross router channel (Photo 3) rides on 1mm thin pieces of polycarbonate and Polyethylene washers are use on regularly rubbing rotating parts to aid smootheness of movement. Even when its loaded up with the router it moves very smoothly and I can rotate the threaded rods easily by hand, the cranks just help speed up the process.
    - The rounter channel structure has 4 slots on the sides 2 on each side that uses 5/16" bolts to clamp the router channel to the frame. The router channel can thus be repositioned vertically over a distance of 200mm above the bench to enable one to deal with different thickness pieces and/or mill well into pieces. It's also the only component that needs to really be level for the the mill to work reasonably accurately for small pieces. for large pieces the whole mill needs careful cross leveling or else one can end up with a twisted piece.
    - Originally I was going to use a rotating cam locking mechanism on the side of the frame to lock the router channel in place during the router pass, but the threaded rod system works extremely well and holds things very firmly.
    - Currently I just have 2 hand cranks on the ends of the threaded rods to move the router channel across the base, so I wind each crank on 10 turns and make a pass with the router. Wind again, make another pass etc. Using a 35 mm wide dish cutter you can make 25mm passes with only small ridges appearing in the surface which can be sanded out.
    - Timber is held down with a mix of clamps and dogs/Wonder dog (see Picture 4) - this works very well.
    - At some stage I will probably replace the cranks with a couple of bicycle cogs and a chain and drive the router channel with a power drill.

    This thing makes an enormous amounts of sawdust hence the 2 x 100 mm DC hoses - that don't seem to gather much dust during the passes but are handy to have to mop up the dust deluge after each 2 to 3 passes. Dust mask is definitely needed. Generally I would say the mill is very satisfying to use. In a follow up post I will show a piece of the desert gum I have started to work on.

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  3. #2
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    Default Router Mill - first pieces

    Like I said I got given this bit of desert gum and used it to tune up my new router mill.

    Photo 1 shows the original surface of the piece. What the photo does not show was the face of the piece was not level but cut an angle of about 30 degrees. The first job was to level the piece. This stuff is VERT hard so it took quite a while and I was getting used to using the mill.

    When I finally had it level it still had some small ridges in it from the form of the dish cutter router bit. See Photo 4 in previous post.

    I then bunged it on the belt sander (120 grit) for about a minute to sand the ridges off.

    ROS with 240 grit paper (see Photo 2)

    Quick hand sand with 400 and 600 grit wet and dry (just dry rubbed - see photo 3).

    Yes one could do this on a lathe, but wait till I drag out my 650 mm diameter bits of red gum waiting for me under my house.

    This is going to be a fun gizmo. So much wood on the wood pile to tackle too.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Very interesting Bob!

    When I made my drum sander, I rigged up a somewhat similar gizmo to make the drum parallel (see http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...0&d=1150192614). This set me thinking about making a more generalised jig, but you've beaten me to it...

  5. #4
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    Hi Steve,

    I admit I got a bit of an idea from your jig but the neural jelly really set when I saw a motorized version of 3 axis CNC rig for positioning underwater probes at work. I have some rough cut mallee roots that I am rather keen to see the polished cross section of and this could well be the rig to do that.

    Bob

  6. #5
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    The idea works well eh

    I have a frame that clamps a router to my sawmill frame for doing that sort of thing. Probably not quite as precise as your jig, but it's able to handle table sized slabs and get them flat to the stage where a sander can finish them off. Smaller pieces like that I can clamp into the B&D workmate and do the same thing.

    I know what you mean about the dust, I set up on the concrete outside the shed then just sweep up the shavings and dust later, and pick what I miss out of my pockets and hair

    Cheers

    Ian

  7. #6
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    Gidday Bob
    Mate what a ripper setup!

    So if Im getting this right you turn those two disc like bits at the end of the threaded rod to move the router across the timber? so on the bench its not across the timber but up and down? (back an forth to and fro from the dust to dust hoses? or the other way? if the other way how does this work? from what Im seeing the router sits on the channel inside the two boards right then what makes the router move across the channel it sits on I cant see how the rod would make it do that... maybe its me but I cant! up and down yes no probs but across? sorry I cant see how

    I love the setup! better than the one I bodgied up a few years back stepped blocks of wood for the timber to sit on a couple of timber side rails and a setup similar to yours but of timber rails from the side rails across the wood and a router base that sat on those and you simply pushed and pulled the router along the rails then moved the whole top section to the next step... bloody tedious but worked... very slowly fidgettin and bloody annoying since it was route one way move the router top setup rout back move the router setup rout back... over the timber then up the next step in the blocks and start again once done up the next step till the top was "flat" then turn it over and start again! :eek: as I said tedious which was why I only ever used it once

    But with your setup (and considering were using the same router! ) it should be a breeze if I can just figure the movement of the router and the threaded rod relationship

    Cheers
    Believe me there IS life beyond marriage!!! Relax breathe and smile learn to laugh again from the heart so it reaches the eyes!!


  8. #7
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    Brilliant Bob! (all puns intended!!!!)

    Cheers
    Wendy

  9. #8
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    You should check out the video from the recent BBQ - Scooter demonstrated his version there.
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild Dingo View Post
    Gidday Bob
    Mate what a ripper setup!

    SNIP

    sorry I cant see how

    SNIP
    Thanks WD,

    The router is still moved across the piece by hand. 10 turns on each of the mill rotary handles and then you make a manual pass with the router, 10 more turns and make another pass etc.

    I found a manual pass is quicker than a screw driven pass and gives you a chance to "feel" the timber while it's cutting.

    I have some bike chain and sprockets that I plan to add so that both rotary handles can be turned simultaneously.

    Cheers
    Bob

  11. #10
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    Default Thanks for the idea

    Hi,
    I'm sittiing here in Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA where it's about 25 degree F. and snowing right now. Trying to do something similar with a 4 inch slab of white oak about 28" in diameter. It's actually two 60+ year old trees that grew together. Thanks much for the idea on how to build this. I was searcing the web for about 45 minutes when I finally saw your post. Looks great. Thanks again.
    Tom

  12. #11
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    Timely that this thread was resurrected .
    I'm looking for the 7 lobe plastic knobs like you have on your mill .
    Ive tried all over Darwin and online
    As I am using 5/16" whit cup head bolts in my tee slots for my router table ,I need 5/16 whit threaded knobs .All the places online I've checked have 8mm which is a bitch.
    On all of my jigs I use these bolts as they are easy to get here .
    I've just finished making a new fence and feather boards for my router table I'm using wing nuts but would prefer the knobs.

    The only place I have seen them is on Rover lawnmowers at Bunnings ,and I'm not sure if they are Whitworth ,although I salvaged two triangular ones from my old mower before it went to the tip and replaced the nut in them with 5/16 whitworth ones.

    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodlee View Post
    Timely that this thread was resurrected .
    I'm looking for the 7 lobe plastic knobs like you have on your mill .
    Ive tried all over Darwin and online
    Are these suitable Kev?
    Cheers

    DJ


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  14. #13
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    Dj ,
    Thanks for the link ,they would be better than plain old wing nuts .
    I found a place online that has the knobs I want ,they can supply any thread just about but I'm under the impression that they have minimum order numbers .
    I will e-mail them tomorrow and see what they say.

    http://www.conceptlatch.com.au/all_prod.htm

    Just posted some pics of my router table in a new thread.

    Thanks again
    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

  15. #14
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    Kev,
    Good luck with your knob search. Up here in Minneapolis, we have a spring pick up day where everyone puts out their unwanted junk and it's picked up and disposed of by the city. Before the pick up happens everyone scavanges for useful items. That's where I get all my knobs-from old mowers just like you. Nice to see woodworkers one half way around the world think alike!

  16. #15
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    Got my knobs today .Next time I think I will order from Rockler on your side of the pond.
    Cost me 174.00 AUD for 18 knobs 12 female and 6 male .
    Besides Rockler have some nice little clamps and stuff .
    Just need the Aussie dollar to rise a bit more.

    I checked out the lawn mower knobs too .I have some old ones that are 5/16" thread ,but I think the newer ones are 8mm .
    The link I posted above are wholesalers and don't sell to the general public.

    Kev.
    "Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend ,inside a dog it's too dark to read"
    Groucho Marx

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