Thread: need you advice on finishing-oil v 2pk poly

Hi Karl

I read your post early this morning and thought it was a really tough one to respond to without further info. I notice there are still no replies and I'm guessing others are having the same problem.

What sort of finish are you looking for? A satin-type for a relatively "informal" setting, a "formal" high gloss mirror finish, or something in between? Are you looking to really highlight the grain or play it down a little to make the top appear a bit mre homogenous and even? Are you prepared to put in lots of time and effort, or are you looking for a quick result?

Cheers

Hi Karl,
If you are happy with the Polyurethane finish you used years ago, then there's no need to go any further. You must have looked after it well for there to be no scratches at all.
I prefer Oil finishes, I don't think anyone will argue with that. If you decide to go with Oil, I'd go for Liberon Pure Tung Oil diluted 1:2 in Organoil Citrus Oil (Terpene). The Liberon gives a good clear finish with excellent grain differentiation and the Terpene is a natural alternative to White Spirits. The Tung Oil when dry (48 hours after application) meets the US FDA guidelines for food safe surfaces, including food preparation.
I suggest you use the method here., but with the following modification. After sanding wet with the 800 grit paper, wipe the surface thoroughly with a soft clean cotton cloth to remove any oil and slurry from the surface. Then continue on with the 1200,1500,2000 and 4000g. You will get a highly reflective surface, but not a "plasticy" as you will with PU.
DO this procedure on a piece of scrap first, to be sure you understand what is happening and to be sure you are comfortable with it. Allow the oil about a week to dry and check it again.
The oil is water proof and resistant to radiant heat. Scratches can be covered by wiping the area with oil and allowing it to dry. What kids do with their toys and things, I don't believe any surface can truly hide! But wiping with oil beats stripping back PU.

The pic below is highly figured Red Gum oiled with Liberon Tung oil at 50% dilution with White Spirits. Terpene will give the same result.

Which ever method you decide on, I would suggest sanding dry to at least 400g. You will get a better end result.

Regards,

Rob

Originally Posted by antiphile

Hi Karl

I read your post early this morning and thought it was a really tough one to respond to without further info. I notice there are still no replies and I'm guessing others are having the same problem.

What sort of finish are you looking for? A satin-type for a relatively "informal" setting, a "formal" high gloss mirror finish, or something in between? Are you looking to really highlight the grain or play it down a little to make the top appear a bit mre homogenous and even? Are you prepared to put in lots of time and effort, or are you looking for a quick result?

Cheers

Hi Mate,

Thanks for th reply. Im after a satin type finish "informal" if you wish or even something in between but not gloss. Yes Im happy to put in some time and effort into it because its for me and my family, dont want it to take forever but no need torush either.
If you can point me in the right direction for a supplier as well it would be nappreciated.
Thanks
Karl

Hi again,
Forgot...Carbatec have both Liberon and Organoil products.

Rob

Howdy Karl

Everyone has their own preferences in finishing and what they feel comfortable using. They also have very different levels of experience. Please note LGS has a lot more experience than I, and if you look at his website in his signature you'll quickly understand he already has the runs on the board. So any partially sensible person would follow his advice (or anyone else's for that matter) before mine.

Having said that, I would approach it slightly differently. After sanding it to at least 400 grit, or more likely 600, I'd use either Feast Watson Tung Oil or FW China Wood Oil (1 litre of either of them will set you back about $45 from Bunnings. Apply 1st coat, saturate for 30 mins, wipe off excess with soft cotton cloth, leave for 24 hrs to dry. Lightly sand with 400 or 600 grit (I use a rotary orbital sander). Wipe clean with a chux slightly dampened with methylated spirits to remove sanding dust.

Apply a second coat of the same oil in the same way. Sand after 24 hrs, clean, then 3rd coat of oil. Then I leave it several days (usually at least 3 if I'm properly patient).

Then, in my mind anyway, that's the finish done and its time to put on the protective layers. At the moment I'm using cabinet makers wax (2 thin layers) and carnauba wax (1 thin layer). Both of these are available from Bunnings. But when my supply gets low, I'm switching to TRADITIONAL WAX. A friend was using it and it gives really great results - so I'd use 3 thin coats of Traditional wax over 3 successive days. It's also half the price of the stuff from Bunnings! And if used properly (remember thin wax layers are way better than thick ones), a 250 ml jar will last for many years if only used on the dining table. However I suspect you will find plenty of other furniture, cupboard doors etc to use it on.

To apply the wax and get a nice even coat, do yourself a huge favour and pop into SuperCheap Auto and buy an inexpensive Rockwell (or similar) Buffing Tool with the woolen buffing wheel (I think its a 150 mm woolen wheel). This gives a really good satin or gloss finish depending on how you use it. It also saves a lot of time and physical effort. Also make sure you reserve this wheel for applying wax only! You now have absolutely no excuse to not apply another layer of protective wax every 6 months or so because it is only about a 10 minute buffing job! If I remember correctly, it will be about $60 well spent.

Another very important tip that will save you lots of grief in the years to come is to use absolutely no other cleaning products on the table top. Just wipe it weekly with a lightly water-dampened cloth to remove the dust. However, wipe up spills straight away, and encourage thu use of drink coasters. It is very easy to make matching coasters anf finish them the same way out of some of the remaining timber.

All the best
Phil

Thanks all for your advice and responses, very helpful

Hi Karl,
Antiphile, thanks for the very kind words, but I'm just a hacker like everyone else.

Karl, Antiphile's method is a very good one and easy to achieve. Trad wax will give a beautiful finish ( and smell) to the table. Feast Watson China Wood Oil, (which is Tung Oil , but comes from China rather than Sth. America) will also provide great grain differentiation.
The advantage to doing the burnishing is primarily that there's no need to cover the finish with anything else. You get water proofing, radiant heat protection (for when you put hot casseroles or the like onto the table) and you can clean the surface with "Spray and Wipe" type cleaners with no damage to the finish. I've even used a scouring pad with no damage on African Mahogany. It's a little bit of extra work for a very robust finish. My dining table is finished in Organoil HBO (which is Tung Oil with 11 secret herbs and spices added) as well as two coffee tables and a mobile Kitchen bench. The bench is nearly 8 years old and has hot and steaming lids and pots placed directly onto it as well as the normal spills of hot and cold liquids and it has no marks whatsoever on the surface. If you're looking for a child proof finish, I believe this is as close as you'll get.
Just some extra ramblings.

Regards,

Rob

Hi again Rob (LGS)

I just re-read your pages on the technique you use to get that great finish. I'm definately going to give it a try since its obvious the "proof is in the pudding". Thanks for your advice and experience, and I'm more than willing to admit that while I have been pretty happy with most of my finishes, I'm certain there is still a lot of room for improvement.

Thanks Rob, and cheers
Phil