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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Queensland
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    163

    Default Applying Cabot's water-based stain and varnish on pine

    I'm refinishing a pine table and want to apply a Cabot's water-based stain and varnish to match as closely as possible the finish on some Tasssie oak which was done with that combination without the need for a sealer.

    As the pine is more porous will it be necessary to apply a sealer coat first so there is no blotching?
    If so, would a clear coat of Cabot's CFP Floor be suitable first, then the stain and varnish combination. There's nothing open nearby where I can buy a sanding sealer but would that even be necessary?

    If the Cabot's CFP Floor is used as a sealer should it be thinned for the sealing coat? It will be used full strength for the top coat.

    Would sincerely appreciate some guidance.

    EDIT: Just found the info on Cabot's site. Who'd have thought?
    Use one coat of CFP Floor (clear) on sanded wood. Sand when dry. Damp cloth wipe to remove dust. Apply Stain & Varnish, as many coats as needed for depth of colour. Topcoat with CFP Floor, number of coats according to wear expected. Back to the workshop.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    NSW
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    1,132

    Default

    feast and watson (also sold at bunnings) have a quick drying sanding seal that works well

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
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    12,192

    Default

    Sorry for the delayed response been a bit under the hammer recently.

    Cabots water based stain is pretty good. I have used it to match some antique walnut furniture which was fire damaged a few years ago and was reasonably impressed with it.

    Pine takes a water stain pretty well and as a rule doesn't go blotchy if it's been properly sanded. That's usually a problem with spirit stains/dyes which are mostly designed for hardwoods and often don't play well with pine and other softer woods..

    Wet the surface down with warm damp cloth to raise the grain after sanding or wipe over with metho soaked rag (either will do the job) leave to dry well (metho will be way quicker) and when dry wipe off any raised grain with a fine abrasive. Don't sand it just a wipe over should get rid of any nibs raised by the water.

    If you sand it you will tear the grain again and have to redo the above,

    The surface should be silky smooth to the touch if done right. You can then apply the stain with either a brush or rag/cloth. If brushed on, even out the colour with a clean cloth.

    Whatever you do don't put down a sealer prior to water staining shouldn't be needed and ideally don't use a water based finish as the stain may bleed out into the finish and look awful.

    Hope this is of some help to you.

    Cheers - Neil
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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Queensland
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Thanks for the follow-up, Neil, but it's all done. I used the method described in the Edit of my first post. It was quite successful. Next time I'll take your advice on prep. that sounds like the silky finish I was after.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Queensland
    Posts
    163

    Default

    Thanks havabeer69. As noted in the post, I wanted to use what I had available so used the procedure in the Edit of post #1, but good to now for future reference.

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