Thread: Auro Pursolid Hard Oil 123?

….. was it something I said?? 🤔

Originally Posted by Banjobeast

….. was it something I said?? 🤔

I would suspect that it's simply that nobody can shed any light on your query. I certainly can't.

It doesn’t appear to be available in Oz, so any comparison with Osmo or Fiddies is largely academic.
The Osmo seems to be well regarded around here.

Thanks guys, as a noob to the forum I was wondering if I’d created a faux pas without realising it.
There is a local distributor of Osmo (apparently) in Hobart that I will check out soon.
Cheers

No faux pas here. Good luck with the Osmo.

Check and see if your favorite youtuber has a link to buy or visit the manufacturer's website in the description. If they do, you'll never know what their actual favorite anything is - they are choosing only to show you something they can make money by affiliate links or sponsorships (often the sham is "I bought this with my own money" with the affiliate link passing back dozens to thousands of times more over time than what buying the product costs).

We went through this with the "wood whisperer" offering "carbon method" as a suggestion with a link that by their affiliate program kicks back a minimum of 20% to the person selling the stuff, which is just nanosilica in a tiny bottle - the same thing available for private labeling on aliexpress/alibaba for $5 a bottle or less.

The oil you mention appears to be more straight forward - a mix of tung, linseed and castor oil with driers, though the driers are not listed on the SDS. One won't know the balance of those things since they are not individually considered to be toxic.

Their thinner and brush cleaner would be quite sensitizing, though (the listing calls it orange oil, but it's terpenes and 70% of it looks like some kind of complex chemical solvent).

I would say if you like it, the key to the durability is tung oil and driers.

The hardwax oils like osmo with two parts have a diisocyanate second part that is unhealthy with contact on skin (it's a 4 level irritant on the SDS here) - you're basically making a poor man's polyurethane with them by taking the diisocyanate and linking it to oils instead of a second polymer.

If the two produce a similar durability, look and hardness, a tung oil based drying product would be my choice.

Originally Posted by D.W.

Check and see if your favorite youtuber has a link to buy or visit the manufacturer's website in the description. If they do, you'll never know what their actual favorite anything is - they are choosing only to show you something they can make money by affiliate links or sponsorships (often the sham is "I bought this with my own money" with the affiliate link passing back dozens to thousands of times more over time than what buying the product costs).

The oil you mention appears to be more straight forward - a mix of tung, linseed and castor oil with driers, though the driers are not listed on the SDS. One won't know the balance of those things since they are not individually considered to be toxic.
…….
I would say if you like it, the key to the durability is tung oil and driers.
…….
The hardwax oils like osmo with two parts have a diisocyanate second part that is unhealthy with contact on skin (it's a 4 level irritant on the SDS here) - you're basically making a poor man's polyurethane with them by taking the diisocyanate and linking it to oils instead of a second polymer.

If the two produce a similar durability, look and hardness, a tung oil based drying product would be my choice.

Thank you for your thoughtful and considered response.
First up CarpenTAK never promotes anything through his channel. Even the little gadgets he uses in some projects don’t get a mention. He has also never mentioned the Oil I was enquiring here about and I have never heard him talk on any of his videos, period.

I understand your scepticism with a lot of YouTube content providers, quickly becoming disillusioned with talkers and sham promoters early on. This guy is the real deal, check him out.

As the OP here I did explain my lack of experience with finishing products and am in awe of the knowledge base here on this subject. This website is the point here, and I am very happy to be a part of it.
Given your reply above, knowing the situation of my enquirey, what do you recommend as a quick finishing coating to projects in the home and workshop that won’t poison me or my family and still give a respectable look to the complete article?

I do have some experience with Tung oil in the marine industry and was fairly happy with the result, however it did require many coates to achieve a finished look to the surface. This was the cabin decking on my sailing yacht.
Since my OP I sourced a local supplier of Osmo here in Hobart and have tried it on a small variety of surfaces with reasonable results. At $70 for a 375ml can I won’t be splashing it everywhere anytime soon so on that score I am still looking and open to input.
Thanks again for your response, I look forward to any further comment you may make.
Cheers

Questions:
1) water resistance important? What about standing water?
2) clear finish or something with flattener in it to look satin
3) how do you want to apply it - brush, spray, pad?

Osmo and the others are just oils with diisocyanate second parts. they're basically 1/2 of the combination to make polyurethane industrially and then oils and wax, I guess (i don't use them -the price makes no sense for what they are and it rubs me the wrong way for someone to call a finish zero VOC or natural or whatever and have a second diisocyanate part - something that is very skin sensitizing, highest level (4) on the SDS).

Originally Posted by D.W.

Questions:
1) water resistance important? What about standing water?
2) clear finish or something with flattener in it to look satin
3) how do you want to apply it - brush, spray, pad?

Osmo and the others are just oils with diisocyanate second parts. they're basically 1/2 of the combination to make polyurethane industrially and then oils and wax, I guess (i don't use them -the price makes no sense for what they are and it rubs me the wrong way for someone to call a finish zero VOC or natural or whatever and have a second diisocyanate part - something that is very skin sensitizing, highest level (4) on the SDS).

Thank you for responding. In answer I would reply:
1/ Water resistance would be important, more to seal up the grain rather than outside or wet areas.
2/ Clear finish yes. I don’t go much on making a timber out to be something it’s not.
3/ Application can be brush or pad. I am not set up for spray use.

I understand your angst with overpriced, under delivering product and I share that disgust.
My frustration is not knowing enough to find a viable diy alternative. That’s where asking folks who do know comes in.
I look forward to reading your response.
Cheers

I'd use a urethane of some sort. Thin it, and it should be a solvent urethane that's not been reformulated recently.

apparently in the US, arm-r-seal is still kind of like the old polyurethanes, flows out and lays nice, and has good color.

Durability will almost certainly be better than the hard oils though it won't sound a stylish.

That is, if you've had a polymerized tung oil and don't like either the color or the lack of hardness with it.

the real problem with urethanes in the last 15 years here is they're being reformulated, so I don't know what the situation is there. Some of the floor urethanes here are harder than most furniture urethanes if that's important, but same kind of finish, great durability and scratch resistant.

Two part finishes for spraying are probably better, but spraying solvents isn't a gimme. I don't do it, either.

if you're looking for waterbased, I'd use a known decent softer WB finish that has a crosslinker option and wipe it on thin and follow instructions. Those finishes are kind of soft without crosslinker, but have good hardness with it.

Thank you for your response. Armed with you pointers I’ll start looking for a viable product bearing all you have written in mind.
Cheers