Thread: u-beaut hard shellac advice- brush application

I'd say you need more coats. The first one will probably have soaked in like ink into blotting paper, & the 2nd one will just start to get a gloss.
I've usually applied it with a pad, but a brush should be OK. You'll probably need at least four coats.

I think your 4:1 is a bit too dilute. 2:1 may be better. I would also use a grain filler before going further.

woodcutta

I have just finished the surface of a Mahogany hall table (grain heavy) with HS using a Manicare (makeup) powder brush and 1:1 Hard Shellac. I used the thicker mix to fill the grain quicker so if this is of no concern I'd stick with a diluted mix. I did go through a bottle as it took about 15 coats and about 4 weeks! Repetitive process of sanding back and recoating every second night. Then when completely flat sanded back to about 2000 grit. Buffed with orbital sander and Festool cut and polish paste (EEE ultrashine also works). The result is a superb glossy finish. You could also try EEE ultrashine after. I haven't tried HS on carvings but have used White Shellac on table legs/ vertical surfaces and repeated similar process as above for same result.

Hope this helps. If anyone else has other methods please share as I am learning myself.

Cheers,
Damen

Originally Posted by ribbet

I have just finished the surface of a Mahogany hall table (grain heavy) with HS using a Manicare (makeup) powder brush and 1:1 Hard Shellac.

Oops, after reading Damen's post

I meant 1:1 not 2:1

woodcutta

I think achieving a fully filled finish (like on a piano) will be near impossible because the carved surface will make applying a fine grain filler very difficult.

best advice I can offer is many more coats


ian

Keep applying your coats of shellac. I'd even suggest keeping the mixture thin - your original ratio.

Lightly sand back after each 3rd coat, maybe with 320 grit.

I would suggest a minimum of 9 coats, if not 12. For something like this, thin coats and working to build up the coats will give a better lustre than say 4 thicker coats.

I'm suggesting this as the pieces look like the application of shellac is a pretty involved affair and slowly/carefully with deliver what you are looking for.


Next I'd suggest you look into using tripoli powder instead of EEE Ultrashine and then Traditional Wax for the final buff and polishing.


Cheers
Wendy

Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

Keep applying your coats of shellac. I'd even suggest keeping the mixture thin - your original ratio.

Lightly sand back after each 3rd coat, maybe with 320 grit.

I would suggest a minimum of 9 coats, if not 12. For something like this, thin coats and working to build up the coats will give a better lustre than say 4 thicker coats.

I'm suggesting this as the pieces look like the application of shellac is a pretty involved affair and slowly/carefully with deliver what you are looking for.


Next I'd suggest you look into using tripoli powder instead of EEE Ultrashine and then Traditional Wax for the final buff and polishing.

Cheers
Wendy

Thanks Everyone for the suggestions. I think the consensus is many more coats. So I will proceed. Wendy, I am wondering why choose 320 grit. Wouldn't that be a bit coarse after going to 2000 for the rubbing back of the wood? Also, how would I apply the tripoli powder?

Steve

This is in regards to my experiences in using shellac on Camphor Laurel.

To be honest, it depends on the timber and how open-grained it is. I make a lot of boxes of out camphor laurel and I've noticed that I still get tiny innsy winsy imperfections or dimples or holes in the shellac and it's always over the grain lines. So I've started taking very careful note of the finish and what it looks like after cutting back with 320, then 400 then 800 etc I've noticed that I get a better coverage with less dimples or similar when I cut back with 320 for the first and maybe second cut backs, then each cut back after that goes up a grade. I apply 2-3 thin coats of shellac between cutbacks. When the sheen and lustre starts to appear, the drying time between coats increases and sometimes I may even very lightly cutback after one coat. This seems to happen when I'm at 1000 or even 1500 grit.

I suggested the Tripoli Powder in that I thought it might be easier to use on shapes, but I think that's a call you are going to have to make yourself.

I hope that explains my reasoning for you.

cheers
Wendy

Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

This is in regards to my experiences in using shellac on Camphor Laurel.

To be honest, it depends on the timber and how open-grained it is. I make a lot of boxes of out camphor laurel and I've noticed that I still get tiny innsy winsy imperfections or dimples or holes in the shellac and it's always over the grain lines. So I've started taking very careful note of the finish and what it looks like after cutting back with 320, then 400 then 800 etc I've noticed that I get a better coverage with less dimples or similar when I cut back with 320 for the first and maybe second cut backs, then each cut back after that goes up a grade. I apply 2-3 thin coats of shellac between cutbacks. When the sheen and lustre starts to appear, the drying time between coats increases and sometimes I may even very lightly cutback after one coat. This seems to happen when I'm at 1000 or even 1500 grit.

I suggested the Tripoli Powder in that I thought it might be easier to use on shapes, but I think that's a call you are going to have to make yourself.

I hope that explains my reasoning for you.

cheers
Wendy

Yes it does. Thanks again.

Steve