Thread: Bees wax and ??

I make a wax that I use over shellac and lacquer by heating 10 parts beeswax, 0.5 parts shellac, 1 part BLO and 4 parts gum turpentine in a water bath until full solution is attained. On cooling the wax precipitates and forms a nice furniture wax. If you want a harder finish add in some carnuba wax. Also works well on unfinished tool handles.

I am by no means a finishing expert but when I looked online the most popular mixture was a 1/3 each mix of beeswax, BLO and turps. I use gum turpentine which is a wood extract. The turps gives it a nice pasty consistency. It penetrates better if you heat it as well so applying to your turnings whilst the lathe is turning will help to penetrate and buff it in.

I think you should also be able to use tung oil which will give it a lighter colour finish since the BLO is slightly yellowish.

I use a double pot to melt the bees wax, add the BLO then take it off the heat to add the turps. There are lots of utoob videos on the subject.

We were using beeswax at the wood turning demo at the Sydney Easter show. Beeswax applied straight to the item while on the lathe.

Should add that this was not going to be a durable long term finish. It was just to pop the grain of the wood.

what would you put over top for durability

Normally the a wax is the final thing you put on a piece to bring out a shine. Don't know what would stick to wax if applied first. The wood turning demo items were toothpick holders that were given to the public that were watching the demos.

Hi Steve,
It has been said that straight beeswax is a very good finish.

For quite a few years now, I think 1988 I found a recipe for a Finish.
I used a 560G Vegemite Jar. 3 parts filled it with, these days Grapeseed Oil or Soy Bean Oil, as neither are toxic.
I had a small block of B/Wax 3 x 1 x 1/2in., warmed it in the Micro Wave
Put a sheet of Newspaper down as wax makes a mess of kitchen work benches. Take the Potato Peeler & peel the wax.
Insert it into the oil, no lid, Micro Wave till the wax has melted, that was about 2¾ mins.
Wear a Kitchen Glove as it is very hot.
I use a small stick, & stir it when I take it outside.
Takes a good Hour to set, but before it does, dip the stick, it in & out a couple of times to see if it is nice & soft, a bit like Margarine.
I leave a soft cloth in the jar, & replace the lid at all times.
Nothing like having chips in your Wax.
I use it on Children's Toys, Kitchen Utensils, Garden Tools that I make.
It does not go over finished furniture.
Well, that is my2senceworth.

Being a hobby bee keeper beeswax is easy to come by, and I use it liberally. I make an emulsion in the ratio 4 parts food oil( canola etc. etc.) one part beeswax. I put a large saucepan with water in it on the stove and bring it to the boil. I then put the wax and oil mixture into a tin can (a bit like a billy can) and place the can into the saucepan - in effect a double boiler. As the temperature of the mixture in the can rises, the wax melts and forms an emulsion with the oil (give it a gentle stir). Then pour your emulsion into a container - I use whatever small bottle are at hand. Later, when the emulsion has cooled, check that it is still softish. I have used this wax emulsion on a wide range of kitchen utensils and have found it satisfactory. As a bonus, I rubbed some of the emulsion into the cracks on my heels and found that repeated applications caused the crack to close - a real win for me.

Brosh

Hi Brosh, Canola is one of the worst Oils you can use. It will go rancid in a matter of Weeks. Olive Oil is nearly as bad. As I stated Grapeseed from the Supermarket or Soy Bean Oil from a Health Shop or even Paraffin Oil, quite a bit dearer, are all non toxic & don't go Rancid.

Sorry, but I've been using this for many a year - making a batch of jars and working through them over time - rancid? I don't think so