Thread: Beeswax finish for both teak and chalk paint?

I'm not personally familiar with Organoils mix but, in general, wax pastes will go over any existing finish.

For raw, oily woods you may be better off wiping it down with a solvent first to remove any surface oils (true for applying any finish, really) but if your Teak has some age to it you can probably forget about that.

The down side is that it's very, very hard to remove and almost nothing else will go over an existing wax finish. ie. once applied, you're stuck with it... so you need to be sure that it's the finish you want.

It also tends to be a 'soft' finish, easily marked or matted off by frequent handling. That's easy enough to fix of course; just buff it with another coat.

This means it's less than ideal for 'daily-use' items but for standing furniture it can be quite effective. So long as you don't mind the occasional rebuff to keep it looking it's best.

Oh... and every wax I've ever used has led to slight darkening over time, which becomes more apparent with multiple applications.

Hope this info helps somewhat.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

The down side is that it's very, very hard to remove and almost nothing else will go over an existing wax finish. ie. once applied, you're stuck with it... so you need to be sure that it's the finish you want.

That will depend on the wax being used.

I find Renaissance Wax comes off easily with acetone

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

It also tends to be a 'soft' finish, easily marked or matted off by frequent handling. That's easy enough to fix of course; just buff it with another coat.

This means it's less than ideal for 'daily-use' items but for standing furniture it can be quite effective. So long as you don't mind the occasional rebuff to keep it looking it's best.

I've found the same with many wax finishes - but not Renaissance Wax - it hardens and provides a well-lasting finish.