Thread: Beeswax Polish

This was just a quick browse of the pdf
Soap is the only thing I'm not sure about would have to careful due to toxicity for such as food use and kids toys.
Only recall once having my mouth washed with soap as a young lad.

Thanks for the link

Equal parts of Mineral turps, Linseed oil and Beeswax makes a decent wood polish. The more Mineral turps you put in it the more liquid it becomes.

Beeswax polish is made by putting equal amounts of beeswax and turpentine in a container,with a lid to stop evaporation and leaving it in a warm area where the wax will dissolve into the turpentine.

I'm not a fan of beeswax in any quantity in a finish; too soft; retains finger marks. For bowls consider equal parts of linseed oil, turps and Estapol. Your very own 'Danish Oil'.

Flood the piece with it with rag or brush, wait a short while (before it gets tacky), then wipe off. Allow to dry, repeat the treatment until you have a level of build and gloss you like.

Personally I do not like the idea of heating the turpentine. But that is what they used to do in days gone by.

beeswax finishes have their roots in Northern European were temperatures rarely reach the high 20's.

In Australia, were temperatures can get as high as 45º, bees wax is of little use.

While its appealing to DIY your own finishes this is something left to commercial manufactures who use harder waxes likes carnuba.

If you really want to do it yourself. You can buy Carnauba (the hardest of all waxes) for a hard bright shine and durability, Ozocerite and Ceresin (high melt waxes) for extra hardness, shine and water resistance, Microcrystalline for added water resistance, a hint of beeswax for smoothness. Or you can just buy the finished stuff here.

Yeah, TS is spot on.

ubeaut also offers the Shithot Waxstik (seriously!) which is really good on open pored timbers like English Elm and Oak.