Thread: Beeswax and raw linseed oil

The trouble with raw linseed is that it is horribly sticky and slow to dry if you don't rub it off really well after application and then in the long term it goes darker and darker til its almost black. I much prefer a good marine varnish which keeps the colour of the timber and can be easily recoated every few years. Apparently Ubeaut hard shellac is even better but I haven't got to that yet.

I think you might find a tung oil/citrus solvent a better solution rather than linseed oil.

And on the topic of gum turpentine, the alternative health brigade have it on their 'cures cancer' and 'miracle cure suppressed by Doctors!' list, so I would be treating it in much the same way I'd handle a product containing a mix of hydrofluric and sulphuric acid!

I think the most important thing to remember here is the volatility of this mixture and to remember not to attempt this over a naked flame. I have heard of some terrible burns from things going wrong on gas stoves.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

I think you might find a tung oil/citrus solvent a better solution rather than linseed oil.

And on the topic of gum turpentine, the alternative health brigade have it on their 'cures cancer' and 'miracle cure suppressed by Doctors!' list, so I would be treating it in much the same way I'd handle a product containing a mix of hydrofluric and sulphuric acid!

Before we throw the baby out with the bathwater lets look at what is in gum turpentine.

The ingredients (I stress ingredients because it is not a single compound) in gum turpentine are a complex class of organic materials called "terpenes". Terpenes are found in plants (especially conifers) and some insects, and are the basic building blocks of many biological materials in all animals. Terpenes range from those that used to flavour foods, those used in pharmaceuticals, and insecticide. A major anti malarial drug is a terpene, as is Vitamin A. Chest rubs like Vicks contains gum turpentine. However this does not mean you should rub a bit of gum turpentine on your chest when you get a cold, or imbide in a shot to cover for a Vitamin A deficiency.

Its use by the funny farm folks to claim cures for very known disease does not detract from the fact that terpenes are extremely useful and ecologically critical materials.

However, just like home brew distilled alcohol where a mix of different alcohols can blind or kill, as we in our sheds cannot separate the good from the bad we treat it all as bad. I treat gum turpentine in the same way, don't breathe or drink it, don't use near naked flames, wear gloves when using it, disposed of rags soaked in it appropriately, and use plenty of ventilation, which is the same thing we should do with ordinary mineral turps.

My concern is less about gum turps and more that people using mineral turps think that because its not gum turps they can treat it like water.
Bottom line is, all the advice on chemicals in these forums is not really worth a row of beans compared to what's on the MSDS for these products.

The trouble with MSDS is, as is often pointed out on these forums, everything sounds pretty much 'dangerous' in its MSDS, from water to alcohol to arsenic to (5R)-[(1S)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxyfuran-2(5H)-one, so they are often worse than useless in making an effective risk assessment in a non-industrial type of setting.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

The trouble with MSDS is, as is often pointed out on these forums, everything sounds pretty much 'dangerous' in its MSDS, from water to alcohol to arsenic to (5R)-[(1S)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxyfuran-2(5H)-one, so they are often worse than useless in making an effective risk assessment in a non-industrial type of setting.

I disagree, they are very useful as a first line and second of information, especially for folks that know nothing about the chemicals.
I would rather newbies treat chemicals according to an MSDS than to do nothing at all, or based on what they hear from there mates or on these forums.

And therein is the problem; you read that you should use particular handling precautions with a range of everyday chemicals which you have been using for years without any particular ill effect (bleach, metho, turps, acetone, dishwasher detergent) so that when you come across a new one with "gloves and eye protection and avoid getting on exposed skin" instructions, you remember that the same was said about (say), acetone, which your significant other uses to clean her nail polish off with every few days without a hazmat team on standby, and you think 'meh, what a load of overly cautious nervous nellies' and you proceed to clean your truck bullbar with a solution containing hydrofluoric acid while you are dressed in stubbies and thongs.

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Sorry, somehow got the product name wrong in my mind or maybe it's changed over the years. I've bought a few of these as the edges have worn out. Painters partner sealant edgers http://www.bunnings.com.au/paint-par...r-set_p1660196. If you have felt the pain and anguish of a silicone disaster you will appreciate these a lot. I still recommend practicing.

That's a great product. Thanks for the link. I didn't even know they existed!!! Cheap too!!

Originally Posted by Toymaker Len

The trouble with raw linseed is that it is horribly sticky and slow to dry if you don't rub it off really well after application and then in the long term it goes darker and darker til its almost black. I much prefer a good marine varnish which keeps the colour of the timber and can be easily recoated every few years. Apparently Ubeaut hard shellac is even better but I haven't got to that yet.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks Len. I've got 20 litres of the raw stuff so I'd really like to use it. Seems there are certainly plenty of options.

The complement to MSDS is "container labelling".

I used to laugh at the labelling requirements being enforced on us at work, until my SIL's father died from drinking drano.

Someone foolishly put drano in the exact same type of cordial bottle the family used to store the mixed cordial.

He came in off the paddock, dry as a proverbial, saw the bottle and took a large swig - 6 hours later he died with a heap of dissolved internal organs.

At the mens shed I saw a bottle of liquid hand soap stored in a pristine squeeze type tomato sauce bottle. Good idea in principle but at least peel the original label off and relabel the bottle.

Soap is not the end of the world but what about if it was battery acid?

One thing I do in my shed is use spray bottles with meths, turps, lube/coolant, and plain water. Sometimes when welding or grinding small things to save myself taking the object to the sink I use the water spray to cool things down a bit. Every time I reach for the water spray I think about container labelling.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

I think you might find a tung oil/citrus solvent a better solution rather than linseed oil.

There are certainly plenty of options. Thanks for the suggestion.

Originally Posted by Picko

I think the most important thing to remember here is the volatility of this mixture and to remember not to attempt this over a naked flame. I have heard of some terrible burns from things going wrong on gas stoves.

I've heard the best way to make a mixture like this is to heat a saucepan of water over the flame and melt the mixture in another saucepan with the steam.

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Which eucalypt did you use? What kind of lamination are you talking about? Side by side or vertically? Any pics?

Here's a quick shot. It seems the beeswax / linseed oil mixture has lightened it somewhat. The front two thirds (length wise from the camera) is just the linseed oil, whereas the back third has the beeswax / linseed oil applied. The misses likes it without the beeswax. Makes it easy for me. Can't argue with that!!!

I like it! The Jarrah circles will match with the puffin billy. Do you have a kind of funky theme going on throughout with your renos?