Thread: Blackwood kitchen benchtops

Rustins Plastic Coating it is designed for that type of use

U-Beaut has a food safe oil for bowls etc that could be good. You would have to talk to Neil though, I don't think its on the web site yet.

Originally Posted by China

Rustins Plastic Coating it is designed for that type of use

Does that create a finish on top of the wood? If so, I am not sure that I want to do that at this stage.

How about laying on a good wood oil first , tung , linseed, or walnut , coat after coat until the timber does not absorb anymore. Then you know that it is waterproof.
At that point you can think about a final finish .

The main thing with any oil is to make sure it is applied properly and gets right into the timber.

The first coat has to be a flood coat where the timber will no longer absorb any more oil.

Leave this on long enough for a cup of tea then buff of the excess.

Then with your damp wrag work in a second coat. Buff of any excess.

The for the next 3-4 days with a damp wrag again work in more of the oil and buff of.

Now leave for up to 2 weeks for the oil to fully cure and give a more water resistant surface.

If you use the benches prior to this you may brak the surface and weaken the finish.

Once a year clean down the bench top and apply another coat to keep the timber refreshed.

Kunos Countertop oil is good for this application as it is a bit more water resistant.

Make sure the undernath part of the bench top is sealed as well.

Stupid question but didn't they finish the top at all. If they did then what's on it and does it really need to have something else put on it for protection?

I would have thought anyone making kitchens would already have a waterproof finish on the top of the benches. If so, there probably shouldn't be any reason for putting another finish over the top. With the exception of maybe a bit of upkeep once in a while and even then only if really needed.

Cheers - Neil

True , maybe thats' what the Organoil Woodsheen was for , a bit of a wipe over sometime down the track

I think that is right. I guess my question is whether I should be doing more than just using the Organoil to preserve the benchtops, especially in the wet area.

You could ring the tradesmen and ask them , after all they are the experts on the matter .

Hi Whitepink59,

It's nice to see a real easy question for a change. There's only one product that I know of that will give you the surface and the level of protection you need on bench tops in wet areas.The product is Wattyl 7008 two pack gloss varnish. That the brushing version, no doubt there is a spraying version but I haven't used it. I've got celery top pine kitchen and bathroom benches put into service 17 years ago and finished with two coats of 7008. I've refinished the kitchen ones once and haven't needed to do the bathroom ones yet and no sign of needing to so far.

If you use the Wattyl 7008 there's a few tricks in applying it. It's got fantastic self levelling characteristics so put on a reasonably generous application with a good brush and THEN LEAVE IT ALONE TO DO ITS OWN THING. On no account attempt to brush and brush it; it doesn't work that way; trust me.

Watch out for the fumes with 7008. It's got an organic solvent thinner and IMO ypou need to wear a PPE mask to suit. Also best to send the non essential domestic personnel for R & R elsewhere for three or four hours. Fumes are just about gone in that time in my experience. No need to buy the very expensive proprietary brush cleaner; just use paint thinners or commercial grade acetone.

Old Pete

Originally Posted by old pete

Hi Whitepink59,

It's nice to see a real easy question for a change. There's only one product that I know of that will give you the surface and the level of protection you need on bench tops in wet areas.The product is Wattyl 7008 two pack gloss varnish. That the brushing version, no doubt there is a spraying version but I haven't used it. I've got celery top pine kitchen and bathroom benches put into service 17 years ago and finished with two coats of 7008. I've refinished the kitchen ones once and haven't needed to do the bathroom ones yet and no sign of needing to so far.

If you use the Wattyl 7008 there's a few tricks in applying it. It's got fantastic self levelling characteristics so put on a reasonably generous application with a good brush and THEN LEAVE IT ALONE TO DO ITS OWN THING. On no account attempt to brush and brush it; it doesn't work that way; trust me.

Watch out for the fumes with 7008. It's got an organic solvent thinner and IMO ypou need to wear a PPE mask to suit. Also best to send the non essential domestic personnel for R & R elsewhere for three or four hours. Fumes are just about gone in that time in my experience. No need to buy the very expensive proprietary brush cleaner; just use paint thinners or commercial grade acetone.

Old Pete

Waste of time. The benches are already finished. He doesn't need to finish them again and the 7008 wouldn't take over another finish anyway.

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

You could ring the tradesmen and ask them , after all they are the experts on the matter .

Another waste of time because most have no idea about finishing other than to squirt a couple of coats of lacquer and will tell you anything. Looks like this lot have been sold a line by Organoil, others will recommend Mr Sheen, beeswax, orange oil, linseed oil or something equally dumb.

If it's finished properly there should be no need for anything other than a wipe with a damp cloth after use.

Darky

Darklord , you may be a poor tradesman , but it is insulting in the extreme for you to tar all tradesmen with with the brush that is used on you .

The tradesmen who built the bench tops in question and coated them with finish are the experts in this case.

You are not .