Thread: Bubbles in Lacquer

There is usually 2 reasons for bubbles.

First one is the air coming out of the pores in the timber, but because it sounds like you have put a few coats on the most likely reason is mixing bubbles.
When you stir the finish be very, very gentle, if you are too vigorous you can aerate it. If you let it stand for a few minutes before application the bubbles usually rise out.

From Feast Watson site

Stir gently before and during use with a flat blade stirrer, being careful not to introduce bubbles.

I took note of stiring from the the can instructions. I'm going to be more careful with the brush today and see how I go. I'm going to thin it a little bit too, hopfully this may stop 'em appearing.

Had similar probs recently when applying Cabotane to an MDF top. Didnt thin it at all. Used a roller.

It was only for a shed table, so it wasnt the end of the world. Not sure if applying by roller would make the prob worse or not.

Also caused by poor brushes. Most are made for paint and will often incorporate bubbles into the finish during application especially if the finish is slopped on the same way that paint is. They can often be removed by blowing on the finish through a straw as soon as they appear. Also heat applied to the wet finish will often bring them to the surface and help in eradicating them.

But a really good brush and good application technique is the first and most effective solution.

Cheers - Neil

as neil said heat
I run a soft flame over the wet finsh,to remove bubbles works every time.

Thanks for the advice fellas. I tried one more coat with it thinned a little before I got the advice. No luck, just smaller bubbles! I was talking to a spray-painter the day after and I weakend to his offer to spray them. But I will try some of the techniquics in the near future plus get a brush to suit. I didnt know, but suspected, my problems may have been related to my brush. How do I tell that it will be suitable for lacquer?
Col.

I enjoy painting. So when I go and buy a brush for painting the only thing that I care about is that this brush does not shed hair. This is also very true for applying finish on your wood working. At your local hardware store you will get a varierty to choose from. From the cheap to the expensive, it is hard to tell you which brush will be better. For me I perfer to have a tapered brush, and not too wide a brush, about 38 - 50mm for most wood jobs.

Now when painting it does not matter too much how you apply as long as the final stroke is from top to bottom.

When applying a finish on wood you have to be a little more caring on the amount of finish in the brush. Does not have to be fully loaded with finish to get a coat going.

Apply the finish,,,, slowly and try to follow a patten or path.

Originally Posted by Christos

I enjoy painting....

Originally Posted by Mulgabill