Thread: Buffing after Danish Oil

Unfortunately I have to be a bit of a wet blanket and point out that "Danish Oil" is just a name, really. There's no set formula for it. It can vary from clear to caramel and from water to molasses in consistensy.

Nonetheless, when I use a product with that label, I usually sand to 320, apply the first coat, wait a day, sand at 400, and then usually that's good. If I need to add another coat, I'll sand at 400 again and apply it. If it's something that needs a bit of added protection, I'll then wait three days, sand at 600, and put a coat of wipe-on polyurethane on it.

I'm sure buffing it wouldn't hurt it, and it would probably give it a bit more lustre. You'd likely appreciate the results. I would wait the recommended timeframe for it to be fully cured before doing it though.

Good luck,
Luke

Luke, I have been using the Cabots and the Rustins DO.
Do you wipe off excess after say 10-20mins after applying a coat? I've been told yes and no so not sure.

I've used Cabots. It's fairly similar to one that I use now.

I wipe on pretty much any oil finish and then almost immediately wipe it off. I start wiping off at the same spot I wiped on, so you get the appropriate delay time. Honestly, I don't see the point in waiting to wipe it off. I know that they say it's for penetration time, but I still think that if its had long enough to start thickening and feel sticky when you wipe it off, which is usually just a few minutes, then it's had time to do all the penetrating it's going to do. But that's just my take. Others will disagree.

I use a DO here in the US made by Watco. I'm not sure if it's available in Australia or not. I don't remember seeing it while I was living there, but I wasn't specifically looking for it either. I'm really happy with the results I've been getting with it. I've used it pretty much exclusively since moving back here.

Cheers,
Luke

Watco was available here but I think Bunnings stopped stocking it. Either that or Masters had it and now they are gone.

I've been using Feast Watson Scandanavian oil which (I gather is pretty much Danish oil) and Cabbot Danish oil on my last few jobs. After a few tries, I now only leave the first coat to soak for half an hour before wiping off, which can take a bit of elbow grease. Second and third coats I'll wipe off the first bits I wiped on straight after the last bits to wipe on, which is usually only about 10 minutes tops. If it's only a single small piece I'll let it sit for 5 inbetween. I normally do all sides, which means whatever the wood is rested on while drying can leave a visible trace, so I'll make sure it's a hidden side in the finished piece. I'm not patient enough to do one side only, because it doubles the time to finish with all the extra drying time.

Not wiping, or not wiping hard enough after waiting too long seems to result in sandpaper gunking up more inbetween coats. Love how it looks on Jarrah, but haven't given buffing a try yet.

This is Jarrah, under Hard Burnishing Oil (HBO). No problem sanding it in up to whatever grit you choose. This was sanded to 400g, the oil added and then polished and sanded into the wood up to 4000g It's water resistant and heat resistant. It's only available in Oz and it is made in Oz. It can be diluted with Citrus Turpine. All natural ingredients. Based primarily on Tung Oil, it gives a nice finish whether you want a high gloss or satin. Cleaning is easily achieved using "Spray and Wipe" Cleaner. The finish is resilient to this cleaner and you will revive the the lustre very well. Barring HB Oil, I would suggest you try Wattyl (Teak) Scandinavian Oil. It is an excellent stand in for HBO and is easy to apply. Same way as HBO, equal results.

Originally Posted by LGS

This is Jarrah, under Hard Burnishing Oil. No problem sanding it in up to whatever grit you choose. This was sanded to 400g, then polished and sanded into the wood up to 4000g It's water resistant, easily cleaned and heat resistant. It's only available in Oz and it is made in Oz. It can be diluted with Citrus Turpine. All natural ingredients. Based primarily on Tung Oil. If gives a nice finish whether you want a high gloss or satin finish. Cleaning is easily achieved using "Spray and Wipe" Cleaner. The finish is resilient to this cleaner and you will revive the finish very well.

Can't see any pic if that's what's meant to be there.

Sorry George, it's there, but I have an issue with editing the post. Try it now>

Regards,

Rob

nothing sorry

Bugger, I'll delete the post as is and repost. Sorry about that, don't know what happened.

Regards,

Rob

I think it's OK now. If not I'll repost tomorrow. You may have t scroll down a few post to see it.

Regards and apologies,

Rob

This is Jarrah, under Hard Burnishing Oil (HBO). No problem sanding it in up to whatever grit you choose. This was sanded to 400g, the oil added and then polished and sanded into the wood up to 4000g It's water resistant and heat resistant. It's only available in Oz and it is made in Oz. It can be diluted with Citrus Turpine. All natural ingredients. Based primarily on Tung Oil, it gives a nice finish whether you want a high gloss or satin. Cleaning is easily achieved using "Spray and Wipe" Cleaner. The finish is resilient to this cleaner and you will revive the the lustre very well. Barring HB Oil, I would suggest you try Wattyl (Teak) Scandinavian Oil. It is an excellent stand in for HBO and is easy to apply. Same way as HBO.

https://www.damnfinefurniture.net/ha...shing-pictures

Regards,

Rob