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  1. 10th August 2014, 01:34 AM #46
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    old_picker
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    i always knew it contained PU - there are some other hardeners also of which only cabots know the details
    definitely not designed as a friction finish for sure - it is designed to soak in and the precat PU goes hard inside the cellular structure of the wood
    i guess this is why it is hard to get off

    i have compared cabots DO to standard DO mix which is roughly 1 BLO 1 PU 1 turps or white spirit
    found it a very soft finish compared to cabots DO which dries very tough after about a week
    the home brew is quite a looker even though though it is susceptible to liquids

    i use Cabots DO on finger boards - i have played particular instruments with Cabots DO treated fingerboards constantly for several years without it wearing
    constant abrasion from the steel strings and sweat from the fingers will eat all but the toughest finishes
    also use it on amplifier cabinets and it makes an excellent looking finish that wont chip and flake

    the main attraction is that it is so easy to apply - i can coat and rub off a cabinet [520x420x300] in 10 minutes 3x 10 = 30 minutes total for finish
    as i understand it the friction oil finish is a lot of work unless you are turning - then it becomes quite easy apparently
    IMHO the friction oil finish is the most handsome of all finishes
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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  3. 10th August 2014, 05:05 AM #47
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    I can certainly understand why you use the finish you do, I have a pair of Matons, a CW80 that I bought new in '77 and an ECJ85, which I bought in 1996. The difference in finish is vast. The CW80 is really showing chips and dullness now, but the ECJ is still pristine, despite heavy usage.

    Here's an Amp case I did for a guy a couple of years ago. Tassie Blackwood, finger joints and Hard Burnished Wattyl Teak Oil finish.

    Regards,

    Rob
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  4. 10th August 2014, 12:11 PM #48
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    nice - how long did it take to do the burnished finish?
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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  5. 10th August 2014, 12:47 PM #49
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    It took about an hour-hour and a half. Half an hour of that time is allowing the oil to soak into the wood. Dry sand from 100-400 (150,180,240 as well) You only need to sand up and back 10 times to get adequate friction to heat the oil that has penetrated into the wood. Wet sand is 400,800,1200,1500,2000 and 4000, but anything like 1500 and higher will give a great finish. These last two pads are microfibre and can be washed and reused probably up to about 10-15 times. There are people on here who have wet sanded to 12000!!
    Once I've finished the wet sand, I wipe down thoroughly with a dry clean whit cloth. The finish is then durable enough to give the results I documented earlier in this forum. Overnight if you are feel happier about it.

    So its a reasonably quick method of providing a resilient finish to nice timber.

    I use Wattyl Scandinavian (Natural Teak) oil, because I think it brings out subtleties in the wood that DO seems to mask.

    Regards,

    Rob
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  6. 10th August 2014, 01:58 PM #50
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    you have some interesting perspectives on polymerisation and friction finishing
    thanks for your time in discussing your methods with me
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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  7. 10th August 2014, 02:25 PM #51
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    No problem, Ray, hope it's been useful.

    Regards,

    Rob
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