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  1. #1
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    May 2020
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    Default Carbothane Clear (oil based) (CABOT'S)

    Greetings all,

    Following on from my son's hallway table (made from jarrah floor boards).


    In lieu of the nail holes being filled with epoxy resin, he wants now to "varnish" the wood. I would assume a water soluble varnish may be a problem with the resin??

    We spent a few "minutes" in Bunnings the other day and looked at their display samples and he particularly liked this. Also seeing the words "hard wearing durable varnish" he has his heart set on that.

    The wood is nice and sanded (down to 320 grit). But the epoxy holes are still quite scratched. Is that a problem or would the varnish fix that. Is it worth spending some time with some fine steel wool over the resin to smoothen out the scratches?


    Fortunately the weather here in Perth is starting to warm up a little so making the next stages easier to deal with.


    Thanks
    Last edited by NicA; 13th October 2020 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Spelling and missed words

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    NSW
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    Default

    Lick your finger and rub it on the resin filled holes.

    You should see all the scratches disappear, which is how you will see it once coated.

  4. #3
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    Default

    OK, looks like some focussed gently rubbing on the cards

  5. #4
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    Nov 2007
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NicA View Post
    In lieu of the nail holes being filled with epoxy resin, he wants now to "varnish" the wood. I would assume a water soluble varnish may be a problem with the resin??
    No, but it will look awful. Stick with an oil or urethane finish.

    Quote Originally Posted by NicA View Post
    The wood is nice and sanded (down to 320 grit). But the epoxy holes are still quite scratched. Is that a problem or would the varnish fix that. Is it worth spending some time with some fine steel wool over the resin to smoothen out the scratches?
    If the epoxy is flush with the surface then it is also sanded to 320 grit and the scratches won’t be visible when the finish is applied. 320 grit is plenty fine enough.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    No, but it will look awful. Stick with an oil or urethane finish.
    Hi Jack, thankyou for your invaluable feedback.

    So this product is OK? if not what other oil base would you highly recommend. He wants the satin finish.

    I might follow up with the steel wool on the spots prior to sanding. But yes, all surfaces have been sanded flat, from 40 - 320.



    His project is due in 10 days so if I can get this bedded down this weekend to connect the legs so we have time to ensure finish is properly done in a couple of days for it to properly set and do two coats.



    Thanks all.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NicA View Post
    So this product is OK?
    Did you intend to provide a link to the product?

  8. #7
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  9. #8
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    Apr 2019
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    Default

    i've used the water base cabbots stuff on a few things before, including resin filled stuff.

    i just prefer water based for the low VOC. if its a school project it really doesn't need to "last" longer then the inspection, but i've not had any longevity problems with the water based cabbots stuff.

  10. #9
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    May 2020
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    Default

    Thanks for your reply.

    A couple of observations....
    The reviews for this product was not that good as most people said it left a milky finish as well as other negative comments (yeah I know take it with a grain of salt).

    So I asked a painter (that was painting a home near by and he suggested the Timber Protect (British Paints) satin, oil base. We just finished painting tonight.

    However I was explaining to my son that we now need this to dry and then give a light sand then another coat.


    BUT... reading the instructions it stated its a one coat application. It also said to leave for 4 days to dry but 7days for complete hardness.
    Do they really take that long to dry?
    With the darkness of night and the lighting of a couple of 30w LED lamps we managed to give it a good lick but it appears to have soaked well and good into the wood. So we were hoping to give it a second lick in three days time.
    Or should we leave as such with one coat.

    I have no experience whatsoever here so peoples thoughts and experience is helpful.


    "if its a school project it really doesn't need to "last" longer then the inspection" ................ yes granted but its being displayed for all parents to see over two nights (thanks to the COVID rules), so he has a sense of pride here as well as marking. This will be then placed in our hall way.

    timber protect.JPG

  11. #10
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    Default

    I have never seen a water based finish look good. Be warned

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