Thread: Coffee table lacquer technique

Oh and yes there are pockets and cracks which I filled with resin.

I tried to lacquer over resin once, and it didn't go so well...

If you decide to use a brush, then if you add about 20% Penetrol that should pretty much eliminate brush and lap marks.

Thanks. Generally is it understood that either spraying or brushing is better for some reason? I have to buy a bottle of laquer either way, so would be happy with whatever is most likely to get a smooth even finish.

Not really. If you're talking about DIY-level varnish like Cabothane then I wouldnt say one looks better then the other. Brush marks can spoil the look but then so can a bad spray job (orange peel, runs etc). I mostly spray because it saves time, but I do regret that I dont get the 'hand-done' look of a really careful brush job. To some degree a spray job has a 'sitting on the surface' look, whereas brushes force product into the grain thus accentuating the grain - but thats probably more relevant to small items then to a coffee table. It probably comes down to whether you have quality spray equipment and are past the learning curve necessary to use it.

Thanks. I have no spray equipment. Was just thinking about buying the spray cans of poly. Sounds like doing it with a brush and mixing it down a bit is the way to go. I have spent many many hours on it so far (mostly spent levelling the slab using an old belt sander), that it would be a shame to get a dodgy finish on it.

I havent had any experience with spray cans so cant comment. Note its Penetrol that gives you the even finish - not thinning with turps. You might consider using a sanding sealer first as it'll give you an easy sanding surface. Most important thing is keeping the bugs and dust off as DIY varnish dries slowly so is vulnerable for a lot longer then a pro lacquer.

I used sanding sealer, Diy varnish and penetrol on a desk recently and the finish is mirror-smooth, so it is possible with a brush.