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  1. #1
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    Default Cut & Polish Glass Coat

    Can Glasscoat 2 pac clear finish be cut & polished.
    I've done a redgum bar top with it, sanded smooth with320 pads on a random ordital sander until it's super flat, and rather than applying another coat, can I cut & polish with automotive paste, to get a high gloss finish :confused:

    Normell
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

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  3. #2
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    You can only try, if it doesnt work then recoat it... make sure the cutting compound you use doesnt contain any waxes or silicons!
    ....................................................................

  4. #3
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    I'v cut & pollished it with fine sandpaper and EEE without any problems. Just make sure it is completely cured first - I left mine for at least a week.

    Cheers
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  5. #4
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    Default

    I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timber_finisher
    I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.
    The data sheet might help for future work, but you don't spray Glasscoat, you mix and pour.
    The Wattyl product sounds like it may be simular to Mirotone
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timber_finisher
    I called Wattyl paints technical dept. with that exact question. They got back to me recommending Clarithane Clear Topcoat. I haven't used it yet because I haven't set up my spraygun (see my first post) I have the data sheet from Wattyl if you want it.
    They may be just trying to sell you some product. I'd go with EEE myself.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Termite
    They may be just trying to sell you some product. I'd go with EEE myself.
    Yeah, but I think he wants a TOPCOAT not a polish
    for a finish like a piece of glass go
    http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...gory6_1.htm#25

    from New england Woodturning Supplies at
    http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...Comm/index.htm

    Normell
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by normell
    Yeah, but I think he wants a TOPCOAT not a polish
    for a finish like a piece of glass go
    http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...gory6_1.htm#25

    from New england Woodturning Supplies at
    http://www.newagemultimedia.com/wood...Comm/index.htm

    Normell
    Hi Normell,

    Doesn't this finish end up looking as if the wood was synthetic? Timber, especially on furniture, should have a nice sheen, but still look and feel like wood IMO

    Cheers!

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon
    Hi Normell,

    Doesn't this finish end up looking as if the wood was synthetic? Timber, especially on furniture, should have a nice sheen, but still look and feel like wood IMO

    Cheers!
    Here's some pics of my bar
    http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...Bar-t7331.html
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by normell
    Normell,

    Have looked at the pics of your bar and the top surface has a nice shine to it. I do have one comment as it appears in your photo that you have no finish whatsoever on the underside of the timber slab http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...e=post&id=4910 therefore you will get moisture changes expansion and contration in one side of the slab (unsealed face) and not on the other - for me this is a recipe for distortion. Shouldn't you have a similar seal on each side to maintain the slab and keep it good and straight?

    Cheers
    Cheers

    TEEJAY

    There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"

    (Man was born to hunt and kill)

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEEJAY
    Normell,

    Have looked at the pics of your bar and the top surface has a nice shine to it. I do have one comment as it appears in your photo that you have no finish whatsoever on the underside of the timber slab http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/foru...e=post&id=4910 therefore you will get moisture changes expansion and contration in one side of the slab (unsealed face) and not on the other - for me this is a recipe for distortion. Shouldn't you have a similar seal on each side to maintain the slab and keep it good and straight?

    Cheers
    Good point, will do it on the weekend
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

  13. #12
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    Nov 2005
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    Marysville
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    Quote Originally Posted by normell
    The data sheet might help for future work, but you don't spray Glasscoat, you mix and pour.
    The Wattyl product sounds like it may be simular to Mirotone
    Still haven't tried it myself yet, I have been setting up my spraygun etc. Attached is the data sheet. Good luck, let's know if you polished the Glass Coat OK.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timber_finisher
    Still haven't tried it myself yet, I have been setting up my spraygun etc. Attached is the data sheet. Good luck, let's know if you polished the Glass Coat OK.
    The finish from polishing the Glasscoat turned out better than I hoped, could not be happier, got some triple E, to finish it off, smooooooooooother than gLASS, with all the wood's texture still there.
    Every day above ground is a good day

    Still drinking & driving, but not at the same time

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