Thread: Cutting back a finish (Wattyl Stain)

G'day Greg - I take it you're talking about a stained or tinted poly finish rather than a straight stain.

That being the case your own answer seems to be the right one. Use 800/1200 grit W 'n' D abrasive and the smallest amount of soap in the water. Make sure to wash it all off really well and dry it at least over night before attacking with the next coat.

Alternatively: If the surface is well dry 48 hoursor more you can use mineral turps instead of the water. the turps shouldn't hurt the surface and the sanding will he quicker and the likelyjhood of there being a scum or additive from the soap to interfere with the final coat would be nil.

As for the Minwax poly or wipe-on, I'd me more inclined to use the same Wattyl finish without the colour just to keep it 100&% compatible.

I have a problem with mixing finishes as they sometimes move at different rates and could cause crazing, cracking or even puckering (leather look). If not immediately, somewhere down the track.

Remember that the Minwax will be a different formula to the Wattyl even though they are both turps based I think you'll find there'll be a difference for starters one is made in the USA to different standards than the one made here.

Not saying either is superior or inferior, just that they are different and without chasing up MSDS's etc (which don't always give the full story anyway) I would suggest probably quite different.

Happy to be proved wrong but I still wouldn't be mixing them just to be on the safe side.

Cheers - Neil

Originally Posted by ubeaut

G'day Greg - I take it you're talking about a stained or tinted poly finish rather than a straight stain.

G'day Neil, yes, Wattyl Estapol Gloss Stain (Walnut).

Originally Posted by ubeaut

That being the case your own answer seems to be the right one. Use 800/1200 grit W 'n' D abrasive and the smallest amount of soap in the water. Make sure to wash it all off really well and dry it at least over night before attacking with the next coat.

Good, thanks.

Originally Posted by ubeaut

Alternatively: If the surface is well dry 48 hours or more you can use mineral turps instead of the water. the turps shouldn't hurt the surface and the sanding will he quicker and the likelyhood of there being a scum or additive from the soap to interfere with the final coat would be nil.

I like that tip. By the time I get to it there should be at least 72 hours gone by. If I use turps then I shouldn't have to wait 24hrs after sanding?

Originally Posted by ubeaut

As for the Minwax poly or wipe-on, I'd me more inclined to use the same Wattyl finish without the colour just to keep it 100&% compatible.

I have a problem with mixing finishes as they sometimes move at different rates and could cause crazing, cracking or even puckering (leather look). If not immediately, somewhere down the track.

It never occurred to me the two finishes might creep, I was more concerned they may react. I think I'll can the Minwax idea and look for some Wattyl clear estapol.

Thanks for the advice Neil, I was worried the new fella's table might suffer if I got the finish wrong

Picked up some Wattyl Estapol gloss tonight. I'm still wondering if I need to wait 24hrs before recoating if I used turps to sand back?

You'll probably have to wait the prescribed tome on the Wattyl instructions. Some finishes say recoat within X hours or wait for X amount of days. Usually the manufacturer knows best. Having not used any poly for many years I'm not too sure as to the prescribed time.

Cheers - Neil

The destructions say 4-6 hours between coats. I reckon to be safe I'll go with that, thanks again Neil.