Thread: Detail sanders

There is a place for both scraping and for sanding. Scraping has its best results on hard wood. Brad, you are right to compare costs by including the cost of the sanding equipment rather than just sandpaper (As I was thinking). Then, a LN #112 scraper plane (approx $600) sounds relatively cheap. But I would not start there. Too advanced and too expensive. Start simple and cheaply with basic card scrapers. Used correctly, these can (and should) produce thin shavings in the manner that hand planes do. The secret is in the sharpening or burnishing. In a few words, the desired edge is a sharp hook or "burr". This is best described by others. So go to http://www.joewoodworker.com/scraper.htm
http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/...s/scraper.html

Frankly, the easiest way is to use the Veritas burnisher jig. All of 30 seconds to use. Cost approx $30.

In use card scrapers are more typically pushed because it is the most natural position for using your thumbs to put a slight bow in the scraper. I sometimes also pull it.

This is probably not the place to go into too much detail. I have no doubt that you will find many articles on scrapers and scraping if you search the web. I will post a few sites when I get a chance to look.

Regards

Derek

Have been following this post, and became intrigued with "Scraping" I didn't even know what it really meant.
Found a web site which is worth a look
http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/

In the Homepage, click on "woodworking" then goto "The Scraper Tutorial"

Brad and others

There is a thread on scraping on Neanderthan Haven that may interest you. Go to http://www.wwforum.com/cgi-bin/forum...cgi?read=62858

Give it a go. You will be pleasantly surprised. But beware - it is the first step down the slippery slope to addiction to hand tools!

Regards

Derek

First time user, so I hope this works...
For removing old paint or varnish esp from furniture, try using glass rectangles. Simply go to your local glass merchant and ask to have a sheet of glass cut into rectangles of 60x90 mm (ordinary cheap glazing stuff). Apply paint stripper, wait fot the prescribed time and scrape! Works wonders - I have safely removed layers of gunk from oak dressers etc. Method: always scrape towards you, holding with both hands, with the glass panel at approx 60 degrees or at whatever angle feels ok. When the scraper becomes blunt, simply replace - too simple... Good luck!

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi guys

I am interested if any of you have tried scraping instead of sanding. I'm not sure if it is even a viable method or possible with the items you are finishing.

I do own several sanders, ranging from the Bosch detail sander to Festo and Makita (even Triton) sanders. Much of the projects I am currently doing (such as a Jarrah Mission style bed) permit me to scrape as they are larger, broader areas. I use a variety of scrapers, such as a Stanley #80, #112 (which is a scraper plane), as well as card scrapers. These work so well that I have not used my sanders in yonks. No noise and I can breath the air.

Could this be applied to your prijects?

Regards

Derek (in Perth)

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The Stanley #112 scraper plane is a hard-to-find and expensive tool as collectors are buying them up. LN make a simply beautiful (and better) copy in bronze but it is BIG bucks. They also make a smaller version, the #212, which is about $250 (I think). These scraper planes are necessary for smoothing Australian hardwoods as planes (electric and hand) will often just cause tear out (the Gordon planes, with their 60 degree blade angle, do not). However, you cannot use them on softwood.

The Stanley #80 is quite cheap (about $30 - 50 second hand) and a wonderful scaper. Kunz make a copy, which is available in most good wood shops.

Card scrapers are cheap as chips ($5 or so) and if the main reason one avoids them is the difficulty in sharpening, then get the Veritas sharper - takes about 30 seconds at most.

The beauty of scrapers, aside from the lack of noise and dust, is the wonderful finish they provide. You simply cannot compare a sanded surface (no matter how fine the grit) with that of a scraped surface. The sabded surface is always going to lack luster (there are fine scratches that obscure the wood) while the scraped surface brings out all the detail in the grain since it is akin to a planed surface. Card scrapers come in all shapes and sizes. I make my own out of old saw blades.

Regards

Derek (in Perth)

Derek

I agree strongly with your advice to forum members recomending the use and choice of scrapers I too use a #80 and many hand scrapers and am saving for the $600 LN but I must disagree (to a point) with your comments about the quality of a scraped surface. True some timbers notably very open grained timbers like Oak or Ash respong very well and give a superb surface but I fine a much better result on fine grained timbers like Myrtle and figured blackwood if you scrape first and the sand 240, 320, 400 then switch to either hand rubbing the whole surface with a bod handfull of plane shavings of the same species or even placing a wad of shavings under the bottom of a ROS on low speed for a final burnishing. Also on natural edged pieces I often finish with these foam pads impregnated with a very fine Alunimum Oxide I use the same ones for years and the surfase realy shines .

My 10 cents

Ross