Thread: Developing Finishing Technique

Lou,

Good thread. Poida - nice bed.

Click on the link for advice on applying EEE http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm

I've just not long bought a spray gun and am in the process of testing it out with some finishes, a few people have said acid cat laquer or pre cat laquer??? Any brands worth mentioning? I've heard mirotone talked about a bit on here?

All that link says its buff it with a clean soft cloth...

No mention of using sandpaper or a buffer.


To me using sandpaper would be like double redundancy, the tripoli powder would both smooth the paper and the surface, but the coaser(?) grains of the paper would still mark surface at whatever grit you are using...

Tripoli powders and the like, work because as the are worked on the surface the particles reduce in size thus making themselves finer and finer as you buff/polish, this is how commercial cut & polishes work in the automotive industry, hand polishing paint cutters always leave scratch marks because the cutting agent is not worked enough to break down, as will polishing not long enough with a buff which leaves those horrid swirl marks you see left by cowboy operators(also dirty pads or suface grit).

Its probably like everything else, whatever works for you.....

Originally Posted by BrettC

Lou,

Good thread. Poida - nice bed.

Click on the link for advice on applying EEE http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm

I've just not long bought a spray gun and am in the process of testing it out with some finishes, a few people have said acid cat laquer or pre cat laquer??? Any brands worth mentioning? I've heard mirotone talked about a bit on here?

OK - I am really good at stupid questions!

What the hell is a cat doing on acid and why does s/he think s/he's a lacquer???

What are you people talking about?? (Said from very dark cave!)

Originally Posted by Mattsplatt

OK - I am really good at stupid questions!

What the hell is a cat doing on acid and why does s/he think s/he's a lacquer???

What are you people talking about?? (Said from very dark cave!)

Well... ahem... speaking of being from a cave thats what we call the shed cause its dark has cobwebs {and the longer the hand and knee issues continue the mosre cobwebc that congrigate} dust and a coating of sawdust shavings and chunks over everything with mysteriuos monsters hidden at every corner an nook... and mate? like you I have no flamin idea what these gits are onn about

But I really with Richard would elaborate {preferably with pics} on the spray techniques he uses

Im wondering if such would work on the deck of a boat

Originally Posted by Wild Dingo

Well... ahem... speaking of being from a cave thats what we call the shed cause its dark has cobwebs {and the longer the hand and knee issues continue the mosre cobwebc that congrigate} dust and a coating of sawdust shavings and chunks over everything with mysteriuos monsters hidden at every corner an nook... and mate? like you I have no flamin idea what these gits are onn about

But I really with Richard would elaborate {preferably with pics} on the spray techniques he uses

Im wondering if such would work on the deck of a boat

Thank God I am not on my Pat Malone!!!!

I am also interested on how Richard et al keep the finish dust free!? I do admit that my shed is messy and dusty and I can't keep it under control. So I am always amazed at the artisans here that keep such a clean space. With spraying I would be throwing dust into the mix as well. But I thought about using some plastic sheeting in a corner somewhere to try make a spray booth. But might just go outside instead, but living near the coast I may have nature's own cutting agent blown into the mix for good measure.

I have been developing my own finishing process based on my reading from fine-woodworking. I tend to gravitate to hand rubbed oil/varnish/shellac stye finishes due to space restrictions and I also am concerned with exposure to toxic heavy metals and petrochemicals.

This has led me to explore firstly a pure tung/blo oil finish. These were good for exhibiting the timber, but lacked protective qualities I seek.

I am now cooking my own varnish the recipes is as follows.

4 parts Bees Wax
1 part Dammar Varnish
1 part Tung or Boiled Linseed Oil
12 parts Gum Turpentine

After finishing with 1200 wet and dry. I start by rubbing 00 pumice powder as a pore filler. Then I coat 3 layers of shellac, then I sand with 1200 wet and dry to create a slurry to fill the pores. As I understand it this is the start of a traditional french polish which gives you a super even and fine base to work from.

Next I add a thin coat of my varnish, let it dry for an hour, and then a buff it off with a clean cloth. This gives a fine film, that will be dry with in a few hours. Every 24 hours I add and buff a new layer.

The above formula gives a hard matt finish.

I am going to experiment with a more high gloss blend. That will be more viscous and honey like.

1 parts Carnauba wax (more gloss then bee's wax)
1 parts Gum Turpentine
1 part Dammar Varnish
1 part Stood Linseed Oil (not boiled)

The aim is to replicate a Tried and True http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/ like formula.

I may finish with three coats of 1 pound cut shellac. Still not certain.

This is an ongoing process, contributed because it is a bit different to what has been discussed above. I would like to here from others who have or do the same finishing process.

Gidday

I haven't seen him round for a while but heres a post by Richardwoodhead. I believe this to be a definitive post on spraying.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=19490

Would love to hear some more from you Richard!!!

Regards Lou

Originally Posted by NewLou

Gidday

I haven't seen him round for a while but heres a post by Richardwoodhead. I believe this to be a definitive post on spraying.

Would love to hear some more from you Richard!!!

Regards Lou

G'day Lou,

You may have forgotten the link!?

PS Great thread, by the way!

I'm not a big fan of spraying either due to the dust content and the bastard next door with the lawnmower/weedwhacker every time he thinks i'm varnising something...

I have finished the bed! I had problems keeping a wet edge on the floorseal for the large area of the bed head so i sanded it all off and started again only this time i put it on with a rag then straight away buffed it with the cotton mechanics gloves i was wearing until it was dry. Came up a treat and you don't get that plastic/varnished look. (Looks more like a satin wax finish). As a bonus it filled the grain very well and left no raised grain. (photo's coming soon).

Pics Here

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/queen-sized-bed-jarrah-46117

Feast & Watson Floorseal on Jarrah - hand rubbed on with cotton gloves until touch dry.

Poida,

I like the smooth finish you achieved, good work. I'd be happy to get a similar result, once I actually make something.

What was your technique for using the EEE? ("EEE For Dummies" method please.)

Brian

Originally Posted by Arch Stanton

Poida,

I like the smooth finish you achieved, good work. I'd be happy to get a similar result, once I actually make something.

What was your technique for using the EEE? ("EEE For Dummies" method please.)

Brian

Hi Brian

I haven't actually put the EEE on yet. Hows that for EEE for dummies haha

I will be putting it on once i get some though as there are very slight marks left by the gloves which a polish will get rid of easily.

When i do i will post up how it went.

Poida

this is a great thread. there is a lot of good information here and i have enjoyed reading it.

i tried EEE for the first time today and i think i did something very wrong.

i like a lacquer finish but i dont have any spray equipment... yes, i do it all with a brush... and a pretty crappy brush... i dont have a lot of money to throw around...

anyway... i have learnt to live with the fact that i was never going to get a showroom finish on my work... i thought to myself "hey, this is just a hobby. nice is ok."

but i cant do it anymore. as i do more woodwork my pieces are getting better but the finish lets them down. so i started to look for information and found this wonderful site!!!

after a little reading i decided the EEE should give me the finish i was after. i decided to try it on a picture frame i just finished. i worked the raw timber to 320 grit with my ROS. applied 2 coats lacquer sanding with 800 grit between coat. after letting the top coat dry for a week i decided to it was time for the EEE. i sanded down to 1200 grit (wet, water as lubricant) then let it dry and wiped off any dust.

i could not find instructions on how to apply EEE so i did my best. i applied the EEE to the surface and spread it as evenly as possible. i then worked it with a woolen buffer on my ROS (medium speed). The finish did not come up the way i was expecting. there is a nice sheen but there is a milky look to it now. i dont know what i did wrong. i would love to hear different ways people apply EEE.

i was thinking though, wouldnt it be just as good to polish the lacquer with a silicone based polish... like a car polish. i thought that may work since there will be not contact with the raw material. has anyone ever tried it?

ok... did a little more research and i have a couple of things to try

i downloaded one of the videos on finishing off this website. it would appear that eee should be applied with a swansdown mop. im going to carbatec tomorrow to pick one up and i will give it a go on the weekend

i also found a post where someone applied the eee with 400 grit. he said it worked. i dont see how but im gonna give it a go too.

i will let you know how it all goes.