Thread: A new discovery

I use Minwax Wipe-on-Poly (satin) for a lot of my projects.

If i require a high gloss finish (still using Satin WOP) i just use a variety of car polishes and cutting compounds to achieve the desired level of shine.

I've tried Gloss WOP but seem to get a better looking finish with the above method using Satin.

Best of both worlds, Satin or Gloss finish with the same product, depending on the project or your desires at the time.

Steven.

Originally Posted by section1

Is it new I don't know but it's something I've discovered on my own. I applied some car polish professional wax system from repco to one half of a piece coated with shellac, it had three coats of shellac over a three day period. Then on the other half I applied the minwax paste wax. The results were identical, you couldn't tell them apart so I'm wondering is minwax paste wax nothing than car polish. I did also tried using the same waxes on oiled only timber and they both failed to brighten it up so this only works on poly and shellac.

If you want a shine (and some added protection) on an Oiled Finish (e.g. one of the various Danish Oil type finishes ) then you'd need to use a furniture wax. I currently using Ubeaut Traditional Paste Wax (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/trad.html) over Danish Oil on a Dining Table. Buffing by hand will achieve some gloss, but if you use a machine buff it's is much easier on the Arthritis and you get a much better gloss. I use a cheap automotive buffing machine with a lambs wool pad. Machine was bought from Supacheap Auto for about $50.00.

Thanks guys as I see it's not a new discovery after all and I pretty much thought it wasn't. I just wanted see what they effects would be, I have tried buffing once on my lathe using lambs wool on triple eee and I guess I buffed a lttle too long which wasn't long at all as it burnt right through the polish and poly. I'm not a big fan of polys I like shellac the most as I have compared between the gloss wipe on and shellac. The poly was a duller appearance than shellac.

I have also tried the watco danish oil and my own home brew results weren't quite as good because I poured in slightly more poly than you would normally and it didn't absorb into the timber as well as it normally would. This time I have made a batch without poly using citrus solvent as a thinner but what I didn't know at the time that the poly works as a drying agent. So will the citrus solvents work as a drying agent as well, will it dry in a 24 hr period andcan shellac be applied over it.