Thread: Eee

**carcrazy** · 15th January 2013, 04:08 PM

planning to go this route(for speaker bookshelf)
1. sandown to 1200 grit
2. Liberon Supreme Danish Oil (3layers) with 0000 steel wool in between
* do i need to rub vigourously DO into the hardwood?
* since its finish with 1200 grit, will using 0000 steel wool rub in between scratch the finish?
3. EEE with swansdown mop
4. Liberon bison tint wax (2layers) using swansdown mop to buff
*will liberon paste wax has incompatiblity issue over EEE?
*do i just apply without pressure or rub in vigorously so the grain will pop out?
*if i use 0000 steel wool to rub in the wax, will i scratch the finish as the previous was done with super fine EEE ?

is this rite?
trying to acheive high gloss finish

thanks

**Chief Tiff** · 15th January 2013, 10:28 PM

For a deep glossy shine I would power sand using the 1200 grit in a ROS then apply oil with a rag until the surface stays wet, leaving about 10 minutes between coats to allow it to soak in. Then get back on with the sander using the same pad and just keep on buffing. Takes a fair while.....

For a hand rubbed finish I apply a coat of oil then rub it in really hard with the back of a piece of sandpaper. Repeat until satisfied or fed up.....

I tend to find that waxes slightly dull the finish; but they are easy to repair and maintain. Oiled finishes need protecting.

I only ever used EEE when woodturning so I can't comment on it's suitability for what you want to achieve.

If you have some offcuts of the same timber just experiment.

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 16th January 2013, 08:41 PM

Personally I'd forget about the 0000 - it can cause problems later by leaving small specks of iron behind - and instead wet-sand the first coat of DO (or two) with the ROS/1200grit.

EEE is basically just Tripoli powder in a wax medium, so I wouldn't imagine it'd be non-compatible with the paste wax. You must remove any excess EE first, though... rubbing down until no more colour shows on the rag.

The Chief's suggestion of trying a test piece would be a good move...

**carcrazy** · 16th January 2013, 09:28 PM

thanks guys..
will try it out on a piece of timber

**carcrazy** · 21st January 2013, 04:28 PM

chief,
do i sand it down with ROS till the surface becomes dry n tacky with 1200grit?
do i need to apply pressure on the ROS?
tq

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 22nd January 2013, 12:09 PM

I lightly sand until the oil turns to a slurry with the dust, then leave it at that. Wait a while, then wipe off the excess... much as you normally would when applying a coat of oil.

IMHO you should never apply pressure to a ROS. It unnecessarily strains the machine and wears out the paper more quickly.

**Chief Tiff** · 22nd January 2013, 09:19 PM

Originally Posted by carcrazy

chief,
do i sand it down with ROS till the surface becomes dry n tacky with 1200grit?
do i need to apply pressure on the ROS?
tq

The paper will slowly clog and form a slurry; you want to keep the slurry on the damp side of powdery. You don't need to apply any pressure; just keep it moving. The slurry is filling all the pores in the wood and the heat generated slowly plasticises the oil into a hard finish; but like I said before it takes time! Allow for about 20 minutes or so per square foot.

**carcrazy** · 22nd January 2013, 09:39 PM

tried the recommended method above..
very happy with the results..
thanks guys

**carcrazy** · 22nd January 2013, 10:41 PM

after do is fully cured. can u compound the surface using meguiars compounding water based(automotive products) running on rotary buffer?

**Chief Tiff** · 23rd January 2013, 07:43 AM

Originally Posted by carcrazy

after do is fully cured. can u compound the surface using meguiars compounding water based(automotive products) running on rotary buffer?

Wouldn't have a clue about this! I would avoid it if it contains any silicones at all.

**carcrazy** · 23rd January 2013, 12:34 PM

its silicone free products

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