Thread: Epoxy Table Top

Sorry, I don't have anything to add...but I eventual plans for a similar project, so I'm interested in the outcome. Can u post pics of ur progress?

I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.
I've mainly tried using gaffa tape because it sticks well to the wood and doesnt let it leak but it beads the epoxy up the side leaving a sharp ridge all the way around the edge.
It also leaves the dimples from the sticky side of the tape in the epoxy.

Also looking for a way of buffing/polishing sanding scratches out, if thats even possible

Really dont want to do this until i know how to do it, so if anyones done it, or even attempted it...
I'd love some help I really dont wanna stuff it up.

Originally Posted by Tainden

I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.
I've mainly tried using gaffa tape because it sticks well to the wood and doesnt let it leak but it beads the epoxy up the side leaving a sharp ridge all the way around the edge.
It also leaves the dimples from the sticky side of the tape in the epoxy.

Also looking for a way of buffing/polishing sanding scratches out, if thats even possible

Really dont want to do this until i know how to do it, so if anyones done it, or even attempted it...
I'd love some help I really dont wanna stuff it up.

I have only used self leveling 2 pack epoxy once, but I remember that the side of the bottle said to heat up the surface with a hairdryer to remove scratches. Apparantly the one that I had uses heat to 'melt' the scratches together.

Might work, try it on some scrap.

[QUOTE=Tainden;1473509]I'm also trying to figure out how to contain the edges to do a self leveling coat.

When working with timber boats and using a epoxy type glue, I would wrap a piece of timber in Gladwrap or even a plastic shopping bag and use this a the framing.

The timber framing or shaping piece was pinned, clamped or screwed into position and removed later.

The epoxy wouldn't stick to the plastic and left a nice clean edge.

Maybe a similar principle can be applied to your 'self leveling' task?

Cheers,
Stephen

Thanks Stephen for the suggestions, I was talking with my old man about it today, he also was thinking about using some sort of timber boxing to contain it. I very much like the idea of gladwrap, will have to give it a go. The only issue i have with this is not all the edges are straight it sorta follows a bit of the natural edge, meaning i cant get the boxing to seal hard up against the edges. That was why i tried gaffa tape.... but that has major flaws as well.

And also John, i did try the 'heat treatment' on the sanded patches, it didnt seem to do much, i tried buffing it with a cloth afterwards it made it a little bit clearer but still fairly fuzzy. Thanks for the idea though, it was worth a shot

Have you considered this stuff

Australia

By all accounts it is very easy to apply, gives a VERY tough finish, and can be left gloss or changed to satin/matt if required.

Sounds like its worth looking into, will have a look when i head off to the big smoke in a few days.

One queery though, am i able to self level a table top with this or is it just a finishing coat? If i'm going to use the table as a dining table, which is kinda what i made it for, i really need to self level it somehow as some parts of the slab have moved a fair bit.

I'm not an expert on finishing, but could u always fill ur holes with clear epoxy, then spray on a 2 pack epoxy finish? That'd be a lot easier than trying to do a self leveling-run on type of finish wouldn't it?

Not have seen the top and how uneven we are talking about.
If you put the top level and brush on a very thick coat of epoxy right down over the edge the surface tension will pull it flat. What you end up with is a flat top that rolls over the edge. Much the same as the finish coat on surfboard. Google surfboard finishing to see what I mean

My $0.02 worth

Russell
PS put it on and do not fiddle with it