Thread: Exclusive furniture finishing

A good example of what I want is bedrock furniture!
Bedrock Furniture, Hand Made Jarrah Slab Furniture, Perth Rockingham - Western Australia, Coffin Bay - South Australia | Gallery

Sanding to 3-400 with an orbital sander should give you a smoother finish.

Are you sanding between coats. or just building up a thick layer?

And looking at that link, are you sure that stuff is polyurethane and not an oil finish? If you work up to 2000-4000 grits with oil you can get a finish like that. (and for their prices I'd be expecting something with that much work in it, not just a quick squirt of poly!)

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Sanding to 3-400 with an orbital sander should give you a smoother finish.

Are you sanding between coats. or just building up a thick layer?

And looking at that link, are you sure that stuff is polyurethane and not an oil finish? If you work up to 2000-4000 grits with oil you can get a finish like that. (and for their prices I'd be expecting something with that much work in it, not just a quick squirt of poly!)

I agree. I think you've written off oil finishing too soon. You can get a beautiful finish with oil if you take a little time.

Here's an example.

Regards,

Rob

Really?? With oil??!! How's that possible? I thought oil can only gives you a matte dead finish???

Hi Jovian,

Try this.

1. Sand dry up to 400g. Wipe off dust and finger marks
2. Flood the work piece with Wattyl Teak (Scandinavian) Oil and allow the oil to soak in for about 15-30 minutes. If the oil appears to dry out in some patches, just wipe the oil over the surface again
3. After the time is up, wet the timber with oil again and begin sanding, using the 400g you last used for sanding dry.
4. Sand with a Random Orbital Sander using 800, 1200, 1500g and if you can get it 2000 and 4000g. Sand back and forth on each piece of the surface using 10 back and forth movements for each strip you sand.
5. After you have sanded with the highest grit you have, wipe down with a soft, dry cotton cloth. Then inspect the finish. It will be beautiful.

That's it.

You can buy a small 250ml can of the oil from most hardware stores, so get a small can and try out the method. If you have any problems, let me know.
Enjoy!

Here's another example

Regards,

Rob

Getting back to your question about pre-cat lacquer - I use Wattyl products rather then Mirotone but I think its pretty much the same. These are my steps to a quick but silky smooth finish.

1. Sand to 180 grit.
2. Rough fill with Timbermate.
3. Sand to 320 grit, sometimes 400. Remove all the dust.
4. Spray with sanding sealer. Sometimes I do 2 coats sealer.
5. Wet sand with 500 or 800. The sealer I use works so well its more like just a wipe over then sanding.
6. Spray with 2 or 3 coats lacquer. Sand between coats only if it needs it.
7. A couple of days later, rub and buff hard with car polishing compound. This step makes it silky smooth to touch. It also makes it look better - more mellow and less plasticy.

Teaching yourself to spray paint clear finishes is no easy task.

cheers
Arron

Originally Posted by LGS

Hi Jovian,

Try this.

1. Sand dry up to 400g. Wipe off dust and finger marks
2. Flood the work piece with Wattyl Teak (Scandinavian) Oil and allow the oil to soak in for about 15-30 minutes. If the oil appears to dry out in some patches, just wipe the oil over the surface again
3. After the time is up, wet the timber with oil again and begin sanding, using the 400g you last used for sanding dry.
4. Sand with a Random Orbital Sander using 800, 1200, 1500g and if you can get it 2000 and 4000g. Sand back and forth on each piece of the surface using 10 back and forth movements for each strip you sand.
5. After you have sanded with the highest grit you have, wipe down with a soft, dry cotton cloth. Then inspect the finish. It will be beautiful.

That's it.

You can buy a small 250ml can of the oil from most hardware stores, so get a small can and try out the method. If you have any problems, let me know.
Enjoy!

Here's another example

Regards,

Rob

this is a whole new level of oil finishing i was wondering why my oil finish is damn smooth to touch but has no shine, no i realize the grit of sand paper used. because in the forum i read somewhere about do not use more than 240G its a waste. i didn't know you can actually go up to 3000...4000 g!!! thanks!! will try that!!! gonna find a piece of off cut to get it a try! i never know there's teak oil available in Wattyl brand! thnks!!! much appreciated!

Originally Posted by Arron

Getting back to your question about pre-cat lacquer - I use Wattyl products rather then Mirotone but I think its pretty much the same. These are my steps to a quick but silky smooth finish.

1. Sand to 180 grit.
2. Rough fill with Timbermate.
3. Sand to 320 grit, sometimes 400. Remove all the dust.
4. Spray with sanding sealer. Sometimes I do 2 coats sealer.
5. Wet sand with 500 or 800. The sealer I use works so well its more like just a wipe over then sanding.
6. Spray with 2 or 3 coats lacquer. Sand between coats only if it needs it.
7. A couple of days later, rub and buff hard with car polishing compound. This step makes it silky smooth to touch. It also makes it look better - more mellow and less plasticy.

Teaching yourself to spray paint clear finishes is no easy task.

cheers
Arron

hi Arron
thank you!!! well explained there! i didn't know you could use car polishes on wood lacquer?? i always use furniture polish... also i only wet sand with 400g.. thanks man! can i use EEE for the finishing?

Originally Posted by Jovian

hi Arron
thank you!!! well explained there! i didn't know you could use car polishes on wood lacquer?? i always use furniture polish... also i only wet sand with 400g.. thanks man! can i use EEE for the finishing?

Actually its auto 'cut and polish' that you want. It contains a very fine abrasive. I think its finer then P2000, though not sure and perhaps someone else can confirm.

I dont know whether EEE can be used, but would love to know.

Cheers
Arron

Hi Jovian

I'll put my hand up to support LGS and Aaron with the Wattyl Teak Oil finish by burnishing the oil with the random orbital sander. LGS posted his method several times in Finishing and I bit the bullet and finally tried it. I made a hash of my first effort due to stupidity (I'm really good with that), but LGS guided me through the correct method, and the second attempt was a huge success. I've since done it on 7 or 8 little item and I find it to be actually quicker and less effort than my previous preferred method.

This week I whipped up a quick utility box for my sister's birthday and have included a pic. It isn't completely finished, all I have done at this stage is the oil burnishing. I now like to leave it for 24 hours before I give it a vigorous buffing with a soft cloth - but you'll be glad to hear it only gets better and better from here.

Pay attention to LGS's method and give it a try. I think you'll find you see oil finishes are much more flexible than you previously thought.

Cheers
Phil

Phil,
That's preeetty! The grain just jumps at you and the smoothness and gloss are just it and a bit.

Regards,

Rob

Yes, you can use EEE as it's essentially a cut n' polish for wood finishes.

Grade equivalent of the average automotive cut 'n polish is about 1000 grit, but most are designed to break down with use to give a finer finish (the ones labelled as a 'scuffing compound' are to assist in getting new paint to stick to old paint and they don't break down)...or if you want to go straight to a fine finish, then get one that says it's good for swirl removing - about 3000 grit and typically labelled 'ultra fine' or similar.

They do double duty as scratch removers for plastic visors, too!

Originally Posted by antiphile

Hi Jovian

I'll put my hand up to support LGS and Aaron with the Wattyl Teak Oil finish by burnishing the oil with the random orbital sander. LGS posted his method several times in Finishing and I bit the bullet and finally tried it. I made a hash of my first effort due to stupidity (I'm really good with that), but LGS guided me through the correct method, and the second attempt was a huge success. I've since done it on 7 or 8 little item and I find it to be actually quicker and less effort than my previous preferred method.

This week I whipped up a quick utility box for my sister's birthday and have included a pic. It isn't completely finished, all I have done at this stage is the oil burnishing. I now like to leave it for 24 hours before I give it a vigorous buffing with a soft cloth - but you'll be glad to hear it only gets better and better from here.

Pay attention to LGS's method and give it a try. I think you'll find you see oil finishes are much more flexible than you previously thought.

Cheers
Phil

I actually went to Oliver's down in James street to have dinner with my partner, then it was pretty pack at that time, they're using tuart board for their dining table I reckon? ( problem with me is wherever I go, the first thing I look is the timber they used on their table and finishing they use, I realized its actually oil finished and its feels so good.. Without the plasticky feels that lacquer does)
I'm still working on he structure on my large buffet, once it done ill post a new thread on big things!
Nice box btw, the Scandinavian oil is actually expensive than tung oil.
But the Scandinavian oil that I bought is feast and Watson, it got resin blended in it? Is it normal?

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Yes, you can use EEE as it's essentially a cut n' polish for wood finishes.

Grade equivalent of the average automotive cut 'n polish is about 1000 grit, but most are designed to break down with use to give a finer finish (the ones labelled as a 'scuffing compound' are to assist in getting new paint to stick to old paint and they don't break down)...or if you want to go straight to a fine finish, then get one that says it's good for swirl removing - about 3000 grit and typically labelled 'ultra fine' or similar.

They do double duty as scratch removers for plastic visors, too!

I tried google I couldn't find any EEE in closer store.. Not in bunnings .... So I've to go t carbatec which is 1 hour 20 minutes drive! Zzz can you get those in automotive store?