Thread: Feast Watson sanding sealer

I don't know about sanding sealer but I just finished a ukulele using silky oak for the sides of the main body using oil based poly and it took forever to dry I'm thinking oak must contain natural oil even though i used oil based poly.

Hi Lyle,

Not sure if this helps, but when I started using sanding sealers I was putting on too thick a coat then finding it a nightmare to sand off. Now I use an old credit card to scrape any excess off before it dries. Still have to sand, but a lot less work.

Brian

Thanks Brian.
I am disappointed with the product as it doesn't work.
As per the either the blurb on the front or directions on the back of the tin.
I will try your idea of the card but I don't think I put it on too thick. In fact I thought I might have been a bit parsimonious in the application.
Are you using this Feast Watson sanding sealer?
Lyle

I was going to buy some to try so following this thread with interest.

The Feast Watson web site application instruction only mention brush, roller or spray gun:
Sanding Sealer | Sealer For Open Grain Timber
No mention of wiping on. And sanding time is 6 hours.

let us know how it goes with ‘homey’s credit card trick.

Is Silky Oak that open pored that you'd want to use a sanding sealer on it? You may be better off using Proofseal or something similar. I'd never thought of scraping sanding sealer off as suggested by homey, but having had to sand it off at times it's something I'll try next time the occasion arises.

Hi Lyle,

I used the F&W until 18 months ago. Nowadays I use shellac or Mohawk pre-cat sanding sealer (spray can) for most jobs. If I need a “deeper” sealer I use Aquacoat AquaCoat Clear Grain Filler now available in Australia - Armstrong Lutherie

Brian

I'm going to try a brush next time. But I had called to ask about applying with a cloth.
It is the sanding that is the big problem. I gave it 12 hours overnight to dry. But it just clogs up the paper.
I'll check with them next their open, but there is no info re sanding except the 6 hours.

Sorry, should have said - I’m using the sealer (where necessary) on veneered boxes. Since the veneer is only 0.6mm thick I don’t want to do any major sanding. That’s why I use mainly shellac or Mohawk pre-cat sanding sealer. Both are extremely fast drying.

Brian

Thanks for the replies and links to other products.
The aquacoat looks ok but seems pretty expensive.
The proofseal is another feast watson product. I think maybe these are designed to be used on flooring not decorative pieces.
I think I'll go back to shellac and see how it goes.
Again thanks for the replies and links to other products.
A photo of some of the silky.
Lyle

Silky Oak is lovely stuff isn't it. Although Proofseal is a product designed for flooring I find it works fine on small projects. The thing I like about it is that, unlike most other sealers, it's totally clear, so doesn't darken the wood. It's very easy to apply by brush, dries very fast, 30 minutes, and clean up is with metho. A light rub back with 600 grit sees the timber as smooth as silk and ready for your chosen finish.

That's what I like to hear.
Is it ok with finishes like shellac or wipe on poly.?
Lyle

This silky is special. Was my father-in-laws. I'm making some boxes for family members so it'll hold some emotional significance.
Why I am trying for it to be pretty.
A box made from the same stash, with a CL lid insert.
PS.
Would the proofseal be ok under the feast watson wipe on poly do you think.?

I’ve used FW sanding Sealer many times on ply that I wanted to paint and have a smooth finish. Never had a problem with it.

You can put any finish over Proofseal, it's very like shellac in that regard. I generally use an oil, but a poly would be no problem either.