Thread: Filler - What to Use

I have had good results with Timbermate filler.

Check out their web site at:

http://www.timbermate.com.au/

Marls,
you'll get the best colour match by using the fine dust sanded off the tale itself. Don't mix it with PVA though as you'll get black staining from tannins and or non stainless metal contact. Use a bit of nitrocellulose lacquer (go and see your local cabinetmaker with a six pack if you don't want to buy 4 litres at a go). This won't stain, is easy to work and is relatively quick drying - don't pack it into really deep holes though, better to use a few layers.

Mick

I'd have to agree that timber mate is prety hard to beat and its versatile.

Marls

I get excellent results using coloured wax. This is particularly good if you finish the furniture with a wax polish.

The coloured wax comes in pacs of different tinted sticks. You can mix them together to get the colour you want.

If you use this, leave the holes untouched until you have put on your finish coat (e.g. poly or danish oil). Then fill the holes and wax polish the whole surface area. Done well, it will be invisible.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi derek,

Does this technique work if I am using Hard Shellac as a finish? Being on top of the finish (if I understand you correctly), does this "lift out" at any stage?

Regards.

Marls

Marls

I must emphasise that wax filler is best used if you are planning to wax the surface anyway.

In my experience it is a durable filler. Yes, it can be prized out of the hole/mark. But it is easy to repair and very stable.

It is not my first choice if I plan to finish over the top of it (finish - other than wax - will not adhere to it). I'd then rather mix a tint into resin and apply that. I generally use 5 minute epoxy. You can buy tints easily enough. Mix your own.

I've not had success with saw dust as a tint. I can never get the surface smooth enough to blend into a planed finish. I have also never really liked Timbermate putty - I struggle to get a good colour match, and I find it neither-here-nor-there in terms of durability.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I'm about to embark on this as well (as I've actually managed to finish something!). Hence the follow up question.

I have built some side tables in Red Gum (A mistake I'm not likely to make again but that is another story). There are little worm holes (about 1.5 to 2 mm max) in the top, apron and legs. I'm intending to finish this in Ubeaut hard shellac.

So are you saying that I should not fill these holes first? Perhaps I should fill with the sanding sealer and sanding dust to fill the pores? I've also ordered Neil's book as I haven't done this before. Previous projects were done in Organoil, poly or Spar Varnish because these were the appropriate finish for the project.

I'd love to hear what folks think about this.

are you saying that I should not fill these holes first?

Mark, it depends on what you are going to fill the holes with. If you plan to use wax, then only fill them later (otherwise you will not get any sealer to adhere). Tinted 5-minute epoxy is the most durable filler, and if you can't match the colour, then at least go darker since it will just look like a vein. I would do this before any sealer. Wax is just a more convenient cosmetic touch up that you can use after everything is completed. I'm not sure if my earlier post made this clear enough.

Incidentally, can't you leave the worm holes? Do you need to fill them? I like the look of natural defects in timber and try to leave the minor knots, etc as original as possible. It is only when the surface must be perfect or if the defect interferes with the general finish or look that I fill.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I thought about leaving the holes but this is a quite formal design. The design is patterned after the side tables of Mike Dunbar in FWW 142 (http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/fw_toc_142.asp). I have substituted materials (obviously) and modified the legs slightly so that the legs taper more.

I need to correct myself. The holes are smaller than I indicated firstly. They range from .75 mm to 1.25 mm. I did some hand sanding and the holes could be clogged by the sanding dust. I'm considering blocking as many as I can with the sanding dust and a sealing coat of dewaxed shellac and re-sanding. Maybe filling the ones I can't ignore with the wax crayons.

Oh well, the great thing about a shellac finish is that if you don't like it you can take it back off easily.

I'm a recent convert to this product. Despite its name it contains wood fibres and so doesn't leave a smooth artificial looking finish. Its methylated spirits based so when dry can be rubbed level with a meths soaked rag. It dries very hard and sticks well. If it dries out slightly in the tin it can be revived by adding meth, so lasts indefinitely. I just have the one tin of maple to which I add pigments when I want different colours.
Best suited for use in raw timber; for previously shellaced surfaces I use wax filler sticks.

Ah, interesting. Here's a link for anybody else that may be interested.

http://www.selleys.com.au/products/live/306/155.asp

JB: Have you tried this with shellac over the top of filled section of this? I was wondering how it would go with the meths in the shellac.

No worries Mark. The shellac dries well before the meth would dissolve the filler. Even if pure meths sat on the filler it probably wouldn't dissolve it once it sets hard.