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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Default Filling gaps in joints

    Not sure if this is part of finishing, but i am making a lamp base which looks a lot like a square vase right now. The joints are sort of large finger joints (40mm) I suppose, and when I put it together there are some pretty obvious gaps in some of the joints. Some are V shape even.

    I had tried on another piece with same joints to fill with PVA glue and sawdust (as the back of the glue said) and that looked very bad and rough.

    What would be the best way to fill up the gaps? Can this be done with a thickish glue(?) or something else, so the joints just look cleaner when finished.

    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    Aug 2004
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    Default

    You can use polyurethane glue which foams and expands to fill small gaps and the colour matches honey coloured timbers quite well. For larger gaps you can buy coloured wax sticks that hide gaps very well. You apply the wax after the first coat of finish so you can get a good colour match. For still larger gaps you can mix dyes or oxides with epoxy to make a subtle repair. If the gap is bigger still, you can glue in a piece of matching timber. Sawdust and pva is awful, it will never finish well.

    Cheers
    Michael

  4. #3
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    Blacktown
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    Default

    thanks for the reply.

    that glue sounds good as pva runs out of the joints and doesnt get applied uniformly. Will try that glue, and then if gaps are still there will find this wax to add.

    cheers.

  5. #4
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default

    Do not use sawdust. Do not use a filler. All these will simple accentuate the gaps.

    Since there is endgrain in the finger joints, hammer in slices of veneer here. Allow the glue to dry, then file or sand flush. End grain against end grain will be invisible.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #5
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Wood filler "in the same color of the wood / Paint it or stain ect "wood filler"
    That is NOT fine woodworking. That is carpentry.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #6
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    second what Derek said
    if you need to, cut a saw kerf to even out the gap, glue in a thin piece of the same timber the box is made from so that you have end grain beside end grain, plane and sand flush


    ian

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Tallahassee FL USA
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    Copy stuff up to all similar locations. Fill gaps with contrasting veneer, and declare "design feature."

    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Default

    used the polyureathane glue, and it went quite well, though when i sanded it back the glue has left some gaps, sort of like bubbles, and also some larger gaps.

    If I was to use the wax to fill the holes now, do I apply it before or after the finish. I am planning to use the minwax wipe on poly.

    cheers

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by angad View Post
    used the polyureathane glue, and it went quite well, though when i sanded it back the glue has left some gaps, sort of like bubbles, and also some larger gaps.

    If I was to use the wax to fill the holes now, do I apply it before or after the finish. I am planning to use the minwax wipe on poly.

    cheers
    After a coat of finish. This will allow you to get a closer colour match to the timber.

    Cheers
    Michael

  11. #10
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    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    This blasted sawdust & PVA keeps sticking its uggly little head up......:mad: :mad:
    Who keeps circulating this rubbish? :confused:

    Can the admin' pit a sticky at the top saying "Don't use sawdust & PVA its terrible"

    How about bumper stickers & t shirts.

    Would writing letters to all the handyman mags and TV programmes do any good.

    AAAAARRRRRGGHH..... sawdust & PVA.... almost anything else is a better filler.

    Calms down... crawls back under rock.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Barossa Valley SA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joe greiner View Post
    Copy stuff up to all similar locations. Fill gaps with contrasting veneer, and declare "design feature."

    Joe
    That was my cunning and successful method before you passed on the handy mitre joint tip, Joe! (the one where you do a temporary fit up, and if you've blown it, run the saw kerf through each join so the edges have been effectively cut on either side of the same blade). My mum is getting a jarrah frame with 'contrast feature' for Christmas!
    "Look out! Mum's in the shed and she's got a hammer!"

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    1,652

    Default ...but it's a matter of degree.

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    That is NOT fine woodworking. That is carpentry.
    Derek
    I agree with Derek, and I tend to abandon any piece I cut with a poor fit, but it's a matter of degree. My preference is for an exact fit, but I've learned that a minor gap, i.e. less than .05mm can be easily filled if you burnish with a burnishig oil. The slurry quickly fills minor gaps making them virtually impossible to see.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Earth, occasionally
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    Default

    Hi Don and Derek.
    Your right Derek, but Don, I couldn't agree more. The use of a burnishing oil is brilliant for fine discrepancies. And, surprise, surprise the colour always matches. Sets pretty rock hard too.
    BTW, any luck with Bosch pads on the Festool?

    Regards

    Rob

  15. #14
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    Oct 2001
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flowboy View Post
    BTW, any luck with Bosch pads on the Festool?

    Regards

    Rob
    Not yet - finished my boxes for Christmas & taking a short break from WW.

  16. #15
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    Jul 2005
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    Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman View Post
    This blasted sawdust & PVA keeps sticking its uggly little head up......:mad: :mad:
    Who keeps circulating this rubbish? :confused:

    Can the admin' pit a sticky at the top saying "Don't use sawdust & PVA its terrible"
    Im probbably one of a few to blame

    But i do it, and love it.

    I get Timbermate and mix 20% pva (titebond) into it and make a slurry and add fine sawdust back into it to take it back to the original consistancy and its a "Brilliant" gap filler that has strength and polishes well.

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