Thread: filling gum veins etc..

I don't think you're going to find anything with a lower viscosity than an unthickened epoxy.

A heat gun (warm the part, apply epoxy, warm everything) can help.

Generally, I've found epoxy all too good at finding new little holes to ooze out of!

Which hardener have you been using with the West Systems gear? Perhaps a slow harderner (209) might help it "seep" in more.

Although, sometimes it can be the application...when you're applying it, give it a *really* good hard squeeze at a diagonal (both directions) to the grain and possibly leave a "mound" over the area so that it can sink in while it dries.

I use the standardish 205 hardener at work on a variety of species and it does a pretty good job at gum veins and simple splits, cracks, tears and gaping great gaps with the right application.

Just remember that sometimes absorption can make it look like something hasn't filled properly, and it might need a second or even third "puddle" to truly fill...even with a wee crack line.

*shrug* $0.02

When turning I'll often use CA in fine cracks.

This is mainly to prevent the wood from flying apart while turning rather than for it's gap filling properties, although it serves both purposes adequately. Thin is best for hairline, medium or thick CA for wider gaps... but I still prefer epoxy for them.

I've no idea how durable it is, but I still have several delicate turnings I've turned over the last decade or so and they're not falling apart. (Well... parts have been broken off, but the 'filled' sections are still fine. )

Caveat: it can also soak into the grain around the crack, leaving an 'oil stained' appearance. In some cases this looks good, in others.., well...

G'day skew I've been using the 207 special clear hardener it works ok but a mate of mine got his epoxy mix from carbatec and it seems to be a lot thinner so it fills the gaps and cracks a lot better than what I've been using ,hence the questions....