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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4

    Default Finish to dining table - tung oil?

    Hello,

    I was just wondering if I could get some finishing advice for a dining table. To give you a bit of background I will explain what I have done to this stage.

    I have made a 1/4 scale model table (700 x 700 x 35 to be used as a coffee yable) as a dry run to iron out any problems before I attempt the bigger 1400 x 1400 x 760 dining table. (No point making all the mistakes on the major work.) It is made from plain old radiata pine from bunnings with 90 x 90 legs and side rails with an inlaid pine table top which has been rebated together. Now I had no problem getting the coffee table together I just don't want to stuff up the finish.

    To date I have finished the coffee table in the following manner. 2 coats of Feast Watson fungishield, (which made the stain go in very evenly) then umpteem coats of FW stain rubbed in by hand to make a nice dark colour. Now I was keen to get a warm oiled finish which will sit in the timber rather than a varnish which would sit on top of the piece which is why a have rubbed in 2 coats of Intergrain tung oil. It is now dry and looking superb (although a little glossy) if I do say so myself.

    My question is 2-fold. What I don't know is how many coats of tung oil to apply and whether I should cut it back or just leave it. Someone mentioned rubbing the oil in with 1200 wet and dry to try and achieve a burnished look and somebody else told me to buff it with a lambswool applicator after the oil is dry. How do I actually finish (or is it already finished) that piece and secondly is a tung oil finish ok (food and drink spillage a certainty which 2 kids under 2) for a dining table which I intend to stain as per the coffee table?

    My apologies for the length of the post however I thought more detail would be better than not enough. Many thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Melbourne S.E Burbs
    Posts
    476

    Default

    Hi Mario,

    I made up the table shown in the attached pic as a bit of an experiment. The top is radiata pine, the legs were a really pale and lightweight "baltic-ish" pine that I got from Moxon's when I lived in Brizzy for a while.

    I put some sanding sealer on first, then some Behlen Stain followed by a couple of coats of Behlen Danish Oil (which I understand is basically tung oil with some other stuff added to make it harder when dry). The picture was, I think, taken as the second coat was drying.

    After the second coat was dry I "de-glossed" it with some 0000 steelwool then buffed on some Intergrain "Patina" wax for a bit more protection. If you're after a satin finish and some extra protection I recommend you try this step as well.

    Cheers,


    Justin.
    Last edited by Shane Watson; 19th May 2003 at 11:54 PM.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Albion Park Rail, NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    6

    Exclamation Finish to dining table - Tongue oil

    Mario

    I have used tongue oil to finish clock faces with a semi-matt finish!
    Using wet and dry paper (1200) on the orbital sander to burnish the surface, and final buff with lambswool, I was pleased with the finish!

    Have fun . . .
    Vic
    VRW

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    55
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks Vic and thanks Justin. I will try both methods out on some scrap.

    Cheers

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
    Posts
    161

    Default

    hi mario,
    i use alot of tung oil for finishing but what ive found when left for a while is that it seems to become a dust magnet.
    a good coat of wax then buffed seems to stop this plus you get a silky smooth finish. just wait a while for the oil to completely dry.
    seeyasoon mik.

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