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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    7

    Best finish for Jarrah

    Gidday all,

    Looking at finishing a piece of Jarrah on an upcoming Wine Rack.

    Main question is how do you get a mirror finish with Jarrah. I am mainly concerned with the top of the rack as it will serve as small table top for crystal wine glasses, so I would like the timber to match the sparkle of whats on top.

    Looking at using shellawax cream - any other thoughts?

    cheers - Steve

    [This message has been edited by SteveH (edited 13 December 2002).]

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Donvale, Vic
    Posts
    148

    Post

    Sand it properly - at least 1200 grit, then French Polish it, sanding very lightly between shellac applications
    Mick

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld.
    Age
    47
    Posts
    1,260

    Post

    WOW! 1200g?? Thats a bit over the top unless your used to using oil finish's.

    If you plan on using Shellawax then just follow Neils directions and you can't go wrong. French Polishing probably isn't such a good idea as the likly hood of moisture being brough into contact with the finish will be higher than normal and lets face it shellac dosn't really like moisture.

    CHeers
    Shane.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    12,208
    There are probably better finishes for what you want than Shellawax.

    You might do better using shellac and wax, or polyurethane and EEE-UltraShine, or lacquer and UltraShine etc. etc.

    Cheers - Neil

    PS you can use Shellawax if you like, it's up to you. If you do decide to use it, let us know how you get on.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Donvale, Vic
    Posts
    148

    Post

    Can't understand the reluctance to French Polishing.
    Sure, it is not stain / water resistant, but, train the users -"Don't put that wet glass on my table"
    or do what I have done, turned a multitude of coasters, stained them to match, and make the buggers use them
    Mick

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    7
    Train the users eh Mick, that made me smile as I thought about the type of responses my users would give me - **** off, get ******, **** you etc..... But thanks for the tip any way.

    Doorstops version of finishing would probably be better suited to my 'clientele', but as I'm in no rush I'll have to think a bit more. Any suggestions on the better brands of lacquer or polyurethane?

    The shellawax cream still appeals to me as I haven't used it before, and all the hype I have read about finishes that will 'knock your socks off' with u-beaut products has me intruiged enough to want to see it for myself.

    Keep the suggestions coming though as it will give me plenty to think about come decision time!

    cheers - Steve

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Between a rock & a hard place (vic)
    Posts
    898

    Post

    I'd be inclined to go with U's hard shellac.
    I've tried it over the last couple of months and given it a good test on a workbench top and a couple of small pieces. Stands up to all it's claims. If you are keen on shellawax cream try it over a base of shellac, similar to Neils recent wax/shellac article in the oz wood review mag. I've done similar with good results. I also opt to sand to 1200+ for pieces that I want to shine. Quoting from past advice I got(neil/shane?) "I've never had a finish fall off because of sanding to 1200+"

    Good luck with it.
    Eastie

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,652

    Wink


    Steve, when the man himself makes a recommendation to use a product other than one he makes himself, it would be wise to heed his words.

    A finish is good only if it suits the application. Neil has suggested "polyurethane and EEE-UltraShine, or lacquer and UltraShine".

    Either of these would be my choice.



    ------------------
    Woodchuck Canuck
    Good luck is the residue of good planning!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    5

    Post

    I built a solid Jarrah bar and finished the top with a 2 pack finish.
    (bunnings) It is mixed together and brushed on the sides firstly to build up a "dam wall". This allows the top coat to be poured on to "self level". You then require Co2 (carbon dioxide) to remove any air bubbles (and there WILL be air bubbles)I used a small blow torch to remove and now have a "glass like" finish on bar top about 1-1.5mm thick! It captures everyones eye. It's very durable, long lasting and I've never finished a piece with the level of finish that this has! (Read instructions carefully as you only get 1 go at it!!)
    From memory it was reasonably expensive (sold packaged together A + B pack) but after seeing the end result I would have paid 3 times that to get it!
    Good Luck,
    Regards Rich.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,652
    Rich, I think most of us prefer the beauty of wood not plastic!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Donvale, Vic
    Posts
    148

    Post

    Go for the French Polish
    Mick
    I have just completed two more Pedestal Tables, and have had clients / recipients ( even my relatives pay for the materials ) round for the Xmas cheer - they have no problem using coasters to protect the French Polish
    Mick

    [This message has been edited by Mick4412 (edited 16 December 2002).]

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Post

    Mirortone have some realy funky lackers if you can perswade someone to part with the small quantities you need.

    or common or garden automotive clear acrillic lacker sprayed of corse.
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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