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  1. #1
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    Jul 2003
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    Default What finish to use on knife case?????

    G'day all, it's been a while since I've opened my big mouth on this forum, so I think now is the time to start up again.

    I'm building a knife case for my brother out of Jarrah. I've made knife cases before and I have just used a danish oil finish on them mainly because they would be around food, etc. But this case is different, first of all it's for his fish filleting knife, and even though it is going to be near food, it is also going to be thrown around alot and have salt water and sand damaging the finish. So a stronger finish then danish oil is needed. I also want a finish that isn't going to effect (or is it affect????) the blade, i.e.Tarnish the blade and make it dull in appearance. Jut incase u want to know, the knife is a Victorinox filleting knife, so the quality of the blade should stand up to any finish (they stand up to danish oil fine...so far.)

    Next problem: He has a dead seahorse that he found on the beach (about 70mm long) and he wants me to cast it on the top of the case in resin. Now i have read that u lot recommend a casting resin. Few questions about that. Where would I find a good quality casting resin? Would a good one be at bunnings (trade card you see, never get one, you just get more things from them)? And how do I clean the excess resin off the wood? Would a scraper work, or just a ***** load of sanding? If sanding, what grit? I guess the finish would also have to be able to be put over the top of this resin...

    thanks all, and i leave it in your hands now to give me advice.

    Nik.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Default

    Norglass makes a clear polyester casting resin that will do the trick. Once it's gone off you can scrape it and sand down to 1200 wet and dry. WIll look opaque but comes up like glass when you put a finish over it.

    I reckon I'd still go for oil because if it's going to be tossed around a lot, at least you'll be able to repair it easily. Maybe boiled linseed oil followed up by some paste wax. A quick buff with some wax from time to time will keep it looking good.

    Not sure how the oil and resin will go though actually. Someone else will know. I've only used it with polyurethane finishes.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #3
    Join Date
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    Default

    thanks silent, where would i find boiled linseed oil? And where did you get your casting resin from, and is it hefty in price?

    Nik.

  5. #4
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    Aug 2003
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    Bunnings should have them. Linseed oil is common, you'll find it with the turps and metho. My local Mitre 10 stocks the casting resin. It's usually with the fibreglass resins etc.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #5
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    Jul 2003
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    sunshine coast
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    852

    Default

    Just a word of warning when casting with resins. If your mold is deep the amount of resin can cause excessive heat as it uses and exothermic reaction when curing. This heat can actually cause stress within the mold hence producing cracks and flaws. You may have to cast the object in several portions. Groovy.

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