Thread: Finishin the table off??

Daniel,

All my finishing efforts have involved much failure before any success. With Floorseal I also noticed when I brushed it on it took a few coats / and especially sanding back with 320 (random orbital) between coats, before I achieved a good finish. But even then, I found I needed to do a final rub with something like EEE or a wax/polish.

With your spraying (something that took me ages to get right), it sounds like you have too little air and too little fluid (Floorseal). You need to dial up the air and fluid seetings on your gun. Floorseal is quite "runny" and should only need about 10% turps, if any at all. I think the spray effect you have is called "orange peel". Do a search on spray finishing and you'll find out heaps.

Richard

Well... after much humming and harrin fumin an mutterin consulting with me myself and I... we have come to the conclusion

That we will

1) varnish the underbody (legs cleats and feet) of the table
2) whack on a bottle or two of Marveer then buff polish with EEE

Im going this way as Ive had some increadible success with Marveer over the years just keep pouring it and spreading it leavin it to dry then repeat till it takes no more then leave it a week then see if its totally covered if it isnt repeat... then polish like billyoh leaves a wonderous lustre

Now having commited to that course of action...

I did notice today that daughter number 3 (she who will own this table) has decided to try her hand at Marquetry as well and wants to make a bird suckin necture from a flower for the top with a stem flower leaf arrangement that runs partway around the top and down one leg... and wants me to insert some gems for flourish (she saw a website that had this and decided that is what we should do as well... god help me if she ever wants chairs!! :eek: ) sigh... so I will once it is time probably revise my decision with regard to finishin... and probably end up finishin with that 2 part poly goop

Still sanding... sanding... sanding... did I ever mention how much I like sanding? But with a bung knee and on crutches theres not much more I can do other than... sand BUT!! the tops comin up a sweet treat!

Dingo, wots dis “I am away for 3 weeks” business? We were enjoying your absence and your already back.

Thanks Richard

I will be putting another coat on the top this morning, and will dial both
stettings on the gun up and see how it goes.

Does anyone know if you can buy the U Beaut stuff from
hardware stores if so which one, or can you only order it online.

Regards

Daniel
Newcastle

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

hi, i have stained a table and am now at the stage of putting a high gloss over the top.

i have stained the table with black japan and i was wanting a high shione on top...
anyway i have started to apply watsons floorproof... is this the same as floorseal....if not it is doing the same thing..

i started to apply with a brush but flound it too thick and then changed to a roller....this was much better but the fluff from the roller got stuck in the floorproof...but when it drys i will sand this back and try again...i really liked the ease of the roller and hopefully the fluff problem won't happen again .

i do not have a spray gun and have no way of obtaining one so these are my questions:

1. is floor proof the same as floor seal
2. can i use a roller
3. do i have to thin down the first layer
4. can i use a mineral turpintine even though on the can it says to use a watson thinner and not a turps and is thinning necessary if i am using a roller.
5 what grade of sanding paper do i use
6. is it necessary to sand between coats
7. should a use a polish over the top coat..i have used floorproof before on something and found that when i wiped it with a wet cloth it streaked.

i am a very amateur wood worker and do not know anything about this stuff and always end up with botchy jobs....this is our dining table which was fine before i started to change the stain so i can't afford to do a bad job.

hope someone out there can help me...

Marveer is a bit suss AFAIK ... think it has the dreaded silicone in it.

Reading this thread with interest. I have just completed a jarrah dining table for a friend. 1.5m square. The finish was a problem until i gave the brush away and wiped on the final coat. I coated legs, rails and top with Wattyl Tung oil by brush. First three coats were sanded lightly with 400 grit and wiped clean before proceeding. Final coat was spread with a lint free cloth pad ( just some cotton) and left to dry. The finish was fantastic as long as you wipe it on, and leave it. Careful application will give a great finish.. If you have to touch up any missed bits, the touchups will be seen when dry.
This product must be pretty durable as I used it after watching a bloke finish off the gym floor at my school.
Good luck with whatever you use, the table will surely look great.

Hi Dingo,

I have finished Jarrah with Danish oil, Ogange Oil & Fine Buffing Oil, all on different jobs.

These all bring Jarrah up a treat, & dead easy to use. I usually apply it with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper with the grain for the first coat, & then with a soft cloth for the rest.

REMEMBER, what ever you put on the top, you should aslo put on the bottom. You don't have to finish the bottom like the top, but if you put 3 coats of X & 2 of Y on the top, put it on the bottom as well. This will stop the timber from absorbing more moisture through the bottom than the top & help prevent warping.

Steve