Thread: Finishing my burl

Ben.
I have seen table tops finished with a clear resin that was floated on somehow. Have never done it, so can't give you any tips.
The look was very glossy, like a sheet of glass, and reflection was a problem.

The product Robert is referring to is called Envirotex. Its not dificult to do but you need to prepare the surface well as there is nothing worse than a glaslike glossy surface of chainsaw and sand paper marks.

Follow the directions on the container to a T especially how to get rid of the bubbles.

Would love to see a pic of the finished project

Thanks Robert and Joe.

I am interested to know if anyone out there has used this product or anything similar. How did it go? What pitfalls should I look out for?

Ben

Ben.
Have a look at
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...hp/t-4738.html
and do a search for envirotex on Google.
There is information out there.
Do we get extra points towards our HSC scores out of this? Mine dates back to the 1950s and it needed a bit of a boost.

Hi Ben, you could also try using casting reisin, I think it can be purchased from firbre glass dealers.

Kev

Hi Ben
I am not far from you (Acacia Gardens) & have turned a number of pieces, including burls, where I have first filled large holes with the west system resin.
Available from Carba Tec in Auburn - they will give you a good idea on how to use it.
They can also give you some good clues on finishes - perhaps UBeut Shellac?
I have found Dominic there to be quite helpful.
Good luck with the major work
Peter
Happyinsydney

Ben, casting resin (Araldite M) is available from Meury enterprises, not farfrom you. it's not cheap there & you may do better at fibreglass places - don-t know, haven't tried. Casting resin is clear and can be polished.

If you use casting resin be sure to block off any holes from under the table top as the resin will find its way through even a small pin hole. I have used it before and it is great. But every avenue for its escape must be blocked off. You can use blutak and tape to fill and cover the holes then all the resin will fill them from above and not leak out. When dry you will get an even coat over the entire surface that can be polished to a higher shine using wet and dry and fine abrasives or can have the high shine knocked off, also by using fine abrasives.

One important thing to note is that it absolutely hates water so make sure that the timber is bone bry before applying it.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

I have used casting resin on Redgum burl. As Neil says, tape the back to prevent leaking. Fill holes in stages as it shrinks as it goes off and wont look as good if you pour it in one go. I went to the chemist and got syringes (without the needles) for measuring the hardener. BE PRECISE with the mix. Not enough hardener and it will never go off, too much hardener and it will go off before you can get it out of the pot. I used a large syringe to squirt into the gaps. Work quickly and don't make much more than 50 ml at a time. You'll be surprised at how far it goes.

Once its gone off, sand to 1000 grit then U-beaut's EEE and it comes up a treat.

All the best,

Dan