Thread: How to fix a bad woodstain

Update on the situation: I took a chance and put another coat of the same dye on the wood. It has improved the gingerness, giving a deeper brown (with hints of ginger) which has really brought out the grain. How should I go about finishing this wood? Could I put the Danish oil over the top?

How is it best to do the skirting board? The skirting board will run right up to the exposed beams. Have I got any hope of matching up the colours between the beams and the skirting? What finish will the Danish oil give? It's a clear oil. Would I be better using a Danish oil with a colour in it? Do I need to pretreat the skirting with anything?

Thanks again.

Here are some images of the current situation. The beam is the colour I really wanted the skirting and the balustrades to be:

Please check forum policy on max picture size, 800x600.

As you have both email and PM switched off, couldn't contact you that way.

Have deleted pics in mean time, please upload at correct sizing, thank you.

Originally Posted by andyg1

The beams are old and a rich red-brown.
[...]
I used an "antique pine" wood stain. On the pale new wood (I'm guessing it's pine) the stain has come out a horrible ginger colour. Fortunately I have only done the banisters, so the skirting is still bare. But I need to undo it.

OK, pix would be nice. But this Antique Pine stain... was it a true stain or just a tinted finish? My guess is the latter (as that's the only one I've had come out orange - after a few coats) in which case sanding back can undo most of the worst and you can try something else.

If, on the other hand, it's a true stain then you'll have to live with it. I'd try staining an offcut the same, then overlaying small sections with other stains - maybe mahogany, or perhaps rosewood if you want it "redder" - until you come up with something that you can live with.

Once you stain a small patch that you think may look OK, then I'd recommend trying the same combo over a larger offcut, just to be sure.

It's an expensive exercise buying small samples of each colour stain to experiment with, but if you're after a particular look that's the price you gotta pay.

Secondly what is the best way to finish the bare beams. They are old and really well featured - lots of knots and some old woodworm. I want a finish that will bring out the features and the different colours in the grain. I bought some Danish oil, but I tried it on a sample and it doesn't really seem to make a difference. What's the best solution.

A true Danish Oil (as distinct from the PolyU mixes masquerading as DO) will soak into the timber, darkening it up and enhancing the grain. The effect should be comparable to wetting down the wood with water. If it doesn't darken the timber, then you're probably using a PolyU that's just sitting on the surface, like a layer of plastic coating. As PolyU's do.

If they're rough-sawn (hard to tell w/out pix ) you'll need to sand them back to 320 or 400 grit to get the maximum effect of the DO's "popping the grain."

I've resized the images. Apologies to all for my ignorance.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

OK, pix would be nice. But this Antique Pine stain... was it a true stain or just a tinted finish?

It was "Colron Wood Dye, Antique Pine". On the tin it says it contains solvent naptha. And not to use it on plastics.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

A true Danish Oil (as distinct from the PolyU mixes masquerading as DO) will soak into the timber, darkening it up and enhancing the grain. The effect should be comparable to wetting down the wood with water. If it doesn't darken the timber, then you're probably using a PolyU that's just sitting on the surface, like a layer of plastic coating. As PolyU's do.

The Danish Oil I have is "Blackfriar Danish Oil". It doesn't say what it is, only that it is solvent based. It's a clear oil.

When preparing the wood on the beams I rubbed it down with white spirit, which made the colour go a little darker. This was exactly the finish I wanted. Really brings out the grain, makes it darker, and has a nice lustred sheen (but not glossy). How do I achieve that then? Do you think the Danish oil is the answer? Really appreciate your inputs, thank you.

somehow you need to get some raw umber on the stained part and into the rest of the stin for the rest.Sanding will help but probably make it patchy(soft and hard)I would overstain,the beam looks a bit random which is good.
Always test before jumping in!!!
jaywit

Originally Posted by andyg1

It was "Colron Wood Dye, Antique Pine". On the tin it says it contains solvent naptha. And not to use it on plastics.
[...]
The Danish Oil I have is "Blackfriar Danish Oil". It doesn't say what it is, only that it is solvent based. It's a clear oil.

I'm not familiar with either brand, but googling them it looks as though they're a true stain (bad news!) and Danish Oil.

Does the DO darken the timber when it's wet and then dry lighter? The first coat(s) of a DO often soaks in, leaving a matte finish. It often requires several successive thin coats, with at least a day drying in between, before a gloss builds up.

But that doesn't help with the stain and I can't really think of anything that'll lighten the colour... make it more pleasing, perhaps, but not lighten it. Short of some heavy sanding, that is.

Sorry.