Thread: Floor Seal for lathe burnishing ?

Baz
The new formulation of Shellawax is a cross linking type of shellac and would give you the sort of finish that you are after, high gloss and should be resistant to mos tthings. The alternative is organoil high speed then U-beaut traditional wax over the top. I am not sure how tradtional wax goes with constant handling, Neil would be better postioned to answer that one.

Never mind , I got the latest Timbecon catalogue in the mail today and it seems Arboroil is for sale again - hopefully they've solved the "jelling in the can" problem , but otherwise it's a perfect mix for me .

Seems they've just released a new wax as well , Arborwax High Build , apparently just like the standard one except it has a fine filler added to help fill the grain a little .

Still , with either Arborwax or Traditional wax over the top of Arboroil I should get close to what I'm after .

I also noticed that one of Ubeaut's competitiors (Hut) is selling a liquid friction finish called "Crystal Coat" . Apparently a mix of shellac and carauba , claims to produce a glass like finish in seconds.

Has anyone tried it ?

I know it's a Ubeaut sponsored forum but it would be nice to get the low down on the competition .

Barry

I have not seen the products that you talk about, although I use Ubeaut stuff I do like oil finishes more than the high gloss shellawax on the lathe. I think too much woodwork gets sold all nice and shiny and then the coat chips or gets scratched.....

Originally Posted by PAH1

Barry

I have not seen the products that you talk about, although I use Ubeaut stuff I do like oil finishes more than the high gloss shellawax on the lathe. I think too much woodwork gets sold all nice and shiny and then the coat chips or gets scratched.....

yeh I like the natural warm feel and look of oil/wax myself , unfortunately the majority of people who buy my cues like the lacquered look (yes , I use actual lacquer at times , either poly or automotive) so high polish is favourable !

OK barryrhere's the lowdown - The Hutt product is a ripoff of Shellawax. Seems we scared the hell out of them when we went to USA with our Shellawaxes. My sourses in the USA tell me they reverse engineered Shellawax, but didn't get it quite right. If you want an inferior ripoff of the original and still the best go for it.

No sour grapes from ubeaut. We reckon it's really, really funny that a tiny little 2 person Aussie business like us can send the likes of Hutt, Howards and others into a frenzy. We wouldn't have .005% of the market they have and don't really want any more. Talk about paranoid. What's even more funny is I believe they reverse engineered the old stuff making it even more inferior to our new Shellawaxes.

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Want something a bit special for the cues. Use Nitrocelulose or similar and buff with EEE-Ultra Shine. Should knock your eyes out.

Shellawax shouldn't chip or scratch if applied correctly as it is basically in the timber rather than on it. A bit of a buff up with a clean rag from time to time should keep it in tip top condition.

Cheers - Neil

Originally Posted by Neil

Shellawax shouldn't chip or scratch if applied correctly as it is basically in the timber rather than on it.

I should have been more careful in how I worded that, I meant for the lacquers and polyU rather than the shellawax. I do use shellawax for certain things, but I beleive my current jar is from the old non crosslinking type and so have not used it extensively on utilitarian items.

Cheers Neil , I gotta say , I wasn't real impressed with Hutt PPP light or dark wax which is why I wanted to know about the crystal coat.

The Nitrocellulose you talk of - is that lacquer or sanding sealer , I'm assuming sanding sealer/grain filler .

I see I'm gonna have to drive down to Mik , they're the only Ubeaut supplier within cooee of the Northern suburbs .

I'm also gonna test some semi-jelled Arbor Oil mixed with hard shellac as a burnishing oil on some old work pieces (nothing to lose ... except a little shellac maybe)
cheers , Bazz