Thread: natural finish for meditation stool / bench

Hi David,

Welcome to the best woodworking forum on the net!

I have one that I bought about 20 years ago that has a poly finish I dont use it much as its hard on my knees now but it has stood up well. Boiled Linseed Oil would work well as would our sponsors Shellawax or hard Canuba wax. Bear in mind that wax will need to be replenshed.

Does your design come apart?

Sebastiaan

Thanks Sebastian.

I was just doing a bit more reading on waxes, and I'm wondering if will be easier and not that much different if I just get a tin of satin varnish.

There are a few different designs I've been looking at, one has hinged legs, the one in the picture I think has recesses in the base of the seat which the legs sit into and then are screwed in. Another variety has legs which are screwed on and then have supporting pieces of wood in the corner joint between seat and legs. I don't think they come apart though no.

Thanks again for the reply.
David

Hi David, I would recommend Boiled Linseed Oil and coat of Ubeauts traditional wax.



joez

Thanks Joez

Try the Sam Maloof finish

The Sam Maloof finish consists of two finishes: A varnish/oil mixure followed by an oil/varnish/beeswax mixture. The first mixture is applied until you are satisfied with the build-up. Then you apply the second finish, which does require some elbow grease! You can purchase the finish pre-mixed from Rockler, or you can mix your own. I provide two Mixture 1 recipes. Mixture 1 Version 1 is the traditional Sam Maloof finish. It takes a while to dry--leave at least 24 hours between coats. Mixture 1 Version 2 is an oft-used finish that provides a little better penetration, is easier to apply, and dries faster.
Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 1) Mix equal parts of the following:

• Boiled Linseed Oil
• Raw Tung oil (not Waterlox, Dalys, or other tung oils containing resin additives)
• Semi-Gloss urethene varnish

Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 2 - Easier to Apply, Better Penetration, Dries Faster) Mix equal parts of the following:

• Thinner. Use paint thinner, mineral spirits, or naptha. Feel free to use a bit less thinner and more varnish or oil. The thinner is present to help the finish penetrate the pores of the wood, rather than lay on the surface.
• Varnish. Virtually any quality varnish will do. I prefer a standard oil varnish rather than a fast drying varnish.
• Oil. Use either boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil. Again, do not use Waterlox, Daly's, or other tung oils that have added resins.

Mixture 2 Recipe Mix 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture in a double-boiler on an electric hotplate just until the wax melts. Due to the volatile nature of the ingredients, brew your mixture outdoors. When cooled, the mixture should have the consistency of heavy cream.
General Procedure Apply three to four coats of Mixture 1. Let oil sit on surface for 5-10 minutes. Optionally, sand mixture into wood using 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Remove excess oil with a clean cloth/paper towel. Allow at least 24 hours drying time between each coat. Apply two to three coats of Mixture 2. Rub Mixture 2 into the surface very vigourously--it is suggested that when your fingers start to get hot from the rubbing, you're applying it correctly.





Ross

Equal parts, mix linseed oil (boiled)and gum terpentine NOT mineral terpentine.
Apply one coat, allow to dry.Apply 2nd coat allow to dry, wipe off excess oil.
Let stand till touch dry.
Purchase french polish flakes and metholated spirits. Follow instructions that come with flakes.
Apply 2 coats,(by brush) sanding lightly between coats.
1 or 2 coats of wax from hardware store, or beeswax mixed with gum terps to soften to desired consistency(like a paste).
You won't get more natural and it will just seem to belong.

Thanks for all the replies everyone!