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Thread: It’s all gone too Poo
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18th September 2021, 03:23 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Yeah Paul, danish oil seems to work the same. I lost this tin for some time and used rustins danish as a sub.
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18th September 2021, 04:39 PM #17
As discussed last week white paint would have been ok.
I am learning, slowley.
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18th September 2021, 05:45 PM #18
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18th September 2021, 10:48 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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I've used the same method many times using Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil over polyurethane. Works very well. Method described here:
Fine Buffing Oil | Feast Watson Products
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19th September 2021, 08:25 AM #20
If the oil is only there for lubrication, wouldn’t paraffin or light machine oil do the same job? I’m trying to understand why a special oil is required, given that it will never touch the timber through the varnish.
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19th September 2021, 11:30 AM #21
Lance,
I’ve been trying to work this out myself.
My thoughts are the Varnish seals the Timber, similar to a grain sealer.
The oil is then used as a lubricant for the abrasive be it sand paper, steel wool, scotch brite pad.
A wax then gives a final polish finish??.
In a way it sounds similar to how Auto paint is finished??
Happy to be advised I’ve got it all wrong[emoji6]
Cheers Matt.
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19th September 2021, 11:33 AM #22
Lance , sorry just realised I didn’t actually answer you question, but I agree would any thin light oil would work, as long as the wax would gell with it ?
Cheers Matt.
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19th September 2021, 12:11 PM #23
Wow three posts in so many minutes I’m on fire [emoji6].
This literally arrived on the Door step Ten minutes ago, but now I’m actually confused because the can says Scandinavian oil,not Scandinavian Teak Oil !!!!.
Should i just go ahead an use this ?????[emoji3061]
ZINSSER Rustoleum Scandinavian Oil (Interior) 437ml | South East Clearance Centre
There’s a link to were i obtained the Scandinavian oil,
Cheers Matt.
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19th September 2021, 12:59 PM #24
Lance
Never having tried any other oil, I can only surmise. I think lingering smell might be an issue with the oils you have mentioned. Otherwise any thin oil may be sufficient providing it is not a solvent for the coats of varnish. The original Scandinavian teak Oil I referenced is extremely thin. Danish Oil is a similar viscosity, but I am unfamiliar with the Scandinavian Oil Matt has sourced. I would suggest trying on a separate test piece first.
The time we used Danish Oil, it was used by itself on a raw wood dining table and was rubbed in with a scourer. It comes up looking similar to the varnish oil, but not quite so tough.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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19th September 2021, 02:00 PM #25
Hi Matt .
I just re read your first post and skipped through the rest to the end so may be repeating stuff said that I missed .
The white problem at the start of this . That's the turps doing it . Its a common problem if mineral turps is used wrong .
That's why when making your own Beeswax finishes Pure turpentine is used in the mix and not Mineral turps .
That's why when you need a washing down soloution We mix linseed oil with the Mineral Turps.
That's Oil and Turps . Oil 25 % Turps 75% . A jar of that is on every Pro French polishers bench Ive ever seen .
Its used for washing down and buffing off dusty furniture for the show room as long as its not a wax finish on it .
Used when rubbing back a dry finish with fine sand paper before the next application . It keeps the paper free from clogging up .
And it can be used in the last stages your talking about where the finish is rubbed back with fine steel wool or similar stuff . We place oil and turps on the dry finish and dab a few spots of beeswax polish on then rub back with fine 0000 liberon steel wool . It leaves a nice dull shine . If you use anything but Liberon 0000 it wont be the finish I'm talking about . Not as important on a tool handle . Crucial on a table top that is about to be inspected by a client .
Its a step too dull for my liking though on table tops . I french polish then wax so am able to bring the finish a step up from being too dull before waxing . One of the great things about shellac is the ability to adjust the shine to any level wanted .
It does a lot of good things you cant do with oil finishes out of a can . Which is why after thousands of years its still around Id say . All this other tinned stuff comes and goes . Some of its good though . Has its uses .
Get some shellac to play with one day.
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19th September 2021, 03:43 PM #26
Thanks Auscab,
But just to clarify, because this stuff all goes over my head, and this may help others as well.
I really get confused when we start talking Turps,Mineral Turpentine,Raw linseed oil,Boiled Linseed oil,kero,wax,beeswax,my head is spinning and I haven’t even opened the bottles yet,[emoji6] to take a whiff.
So,I mix 25% Raw linseed oil(Not Boiled linseed)Diggers Brand
75% Mineral Turpentine(Diggers Brand).
And use that to polish cut back with, have some 2000 wet and dry on hand, but i only have the green shed type 0000 steel wool on hand.
Then apply a hard wax and buff.
Think first year apprentice [emoji6].
Cheers Matt.
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19th September 2021, 04:24 PM #27
Mix 25% Raw or Boiled . It doesn't matter. Your using it then removing it . Or removing as much as possible with a dry rag .
2000 is a lot to fine IMHO. 400 grit is the go . Used 400 grit if you want finer . New 400 has a bit to much bite if your at final stages of finishing so rub two bits together to remove the fresh bite . Ive been polishing 42 years and the only time Ive used over 400 grit, as tought ,for woodwork , was when I started painting a car . Cutting and buffing a paint job on a car before wax .
On hard lacquer jobs on wood, sprayed like modern stuff is done, then it's done with a cut and buff . But I don't see that as a quality thing at all . Its fast , thick , glossy gloop with rounded corners . Hand work in finishing gets much nicer results .
When you get your oil and turps mix in a jar . Play with cutting back finishes before next stage .
Have a go at cutting back raw wood with fine paper then buffing dry as well . Its nice .
Its a lovely way to finish the insides of drawers .
If you play with shellac on a polishing rubber, a thin wipe over on these dry wood cut backs is lovely .Its got to be a thin shellac mix though . Needs explaining more . Sorry that's more like 4th year stuff
You will have to use the green shed 0000 then .
liberon is sold on ebay Liberon - Steel Wool 2 100g - 15065 5450011000158 | eBay
Or same stuff here is $22 I think .
Graeme Brown Antiques
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19th September 2021, 09:52 PM #28
Just thinking more on this .
I use 400 grit but then come back and re body with shellac . So put more finer coats on by rubbing . It gets a finer build up on top of my 400 grit before finishing.
I'm not into modern cut and buff finishing as I was saying above on lacquers but the 2000 wet and dry then your 0000 steel wool on your oil finished handle should be a good thing . Better quality steel wool would make a difference .
Ill send you a small amount if you like Matt . Tell us if you can see a difference when you try it out .
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20th September 2021, 02:43 PM #29
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20th September 2021, 06:27 PM #30
Well I think i will leave this as is for now, the handle actually feels quite nice with a very low sheen.
I can’t power buff it because that stuff is else we’re.[emoji17]
But I’m quite happy with how it looks,especially because I normally like a lot more gloss,times they are changing.
I’m waiting on some “special” bolts to arrive in the mail,once they arrive i can finish the saw,and i put it up in the Saws Handmade section.
Cheers Matt.