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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Melbourne
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    Default Myrtle burl coffee table finishing?

    Hi guys, I'm just getting into woodworking (restoring cars was getting to hard on my back), I have a piece of myrtle burl that I'd like to make into a coffee table, keeping its natural colour. My first attempt I used a casting resin to coat a similar burl was a complete failure, it looked great.... for a couple of days then started developing air bubbles under the resin and hasn't stopped since, that was 3 weeks ago. So for this piece I'm not sure what to use, ie. Tung oil (which Ive seen but never used), your run of the mill varnish like cabot's, etc. I want it to be water proof at least and be able to take some heat. So any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

    Sorry I should add, this isn't the piece of myrtle I killed with casting resin it a new piece

    Thanks
    First pic is the new one, second is the bubbling failure

    image.jpgimage.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    First you will need to sand your slab
    then fill the pin holes
    sand again
    then apply your finish of choice -- my preference would be a tung oil floor sealer
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    First you will need to sand your slab
    then fill the pin holes
    sand again
    then apply your finish of choice -- my preference would be a tung oil floor sealer
    This is probably a dumb question, but, does tung oil go on the same as varnish or is something else involved?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,470

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by adamhelps View Post
    This is probably a dumb question, but, does tung oil go on the same as varnish or is something else involved?
    With tongue oil, you brush on, looking for a wet layer, leave for approx 40 to 60 minutes then dry brush or use lint free rag to remove excess. Wait a minimum of 24 hours then recoat the same way.

    I've just used it on a table top segment last weekend.
    IMG_0989.jpg

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks Lappa, that looks great.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    292

    Default

    If you are just getting into the art of woodworking, it maybe an idea to try out a few various coatings. Often, one product will not be, thebe all, end all of all projects. Oneproduct that may fit the bill with what you are after is the Kunos countertopoil #243. Whilst it is certified food safe, it is also heat resistant to 50degrees. If you have an off cut, try it out first, I think you will be amazedat how the colour and structure of the timber pops out at you. One of the greatbenefits of using an oil is that you can rejuvenate the surface without anysanding back as there is not layer coating as such to scratch. Being a naturalcoating, observe the curing times though. If you are going to fill the holes,consider using ebony putty to actually highlight the natural imperfections. Itwill give the piece more detail.

    Livos Australia

    <O</O

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