Thread: issue with timber kitchen benchtop - advice please!

some pics might help understand what you mean and what the problem is.
What is treatex?

Astrid

Hi Astrid
Treatex is a penetrating wax based on natural oils and waxes etc.

Will post pics.
Thanks
LeonieB

cant see a prob with putting polly on the untreated top.
but if treatex is a wax, i wouldnt like to bet the polly would stick to it.
salesmen often tell you what you want to hear.
but if its on the underside of a shelf, does it matter?

Astrid

Astrid
Its because of having different products on the top and bottom and the possible risk of cupping of the slab, and the underneath of the small slab above it is visible also.

LeonieB

The slab should be coated all over with the same product with the the same amount of coats top and bottom.

You need to either pull it back out and strip off the Treatex and recoat with poly or coat the top with Treatex as well.

Using poly on top and Treatex on the bottom, I would think would be unstable. The Teatex will probably still allow moisture from the air to still be absorbed and expanded whilst the poly won't, which will increase the chances of the slab cupping.

I'm not sure I agree with you there DJ (RE same product all around)

I used acrylic weather seal paint on the undersides of my timber benches - poly on top with no warping or cupping.

I think that once the timber is moisture sealed you shouldn't get differencial movement..I do agree that treatex may allow moisture penetration which will lead to tears or nashing of teeth.

I also think trying to remove the treatex will be extremely difficult.

What BT said,
Where is that little smiley?.

astrid

Originally Posted by LeonieB

HI everyone
Just wondering what people think about this.
My husband has coated a timber slab 800 x 800 on the bottom and cut edges with Treatex gloss. He has installed it loosely nailed to a couple of runners. It is a shelf rather than a benchtop.

We now think we will coat it on the top with a solvent-based poyurethane single pack. We checked that this will go over and stick to the Treatex that is underneath the slab by talking to the rep and and by testing a sample. It seemed to stick and the rep thought this would work. We would sand it first to key it in. However it was not sanded on the bottom before being coated with Treatex so it is not an even coat underneath.

BUt we will need to leave the cut edges at the sides and back as they are with Treatex only, because it is installed.

Do you think this sounds like it might create a problem, or is it possible to do it this way?

The other option, of coating it with Treatex on top, is less favorable in terms of matching our other benchtops which we intend to coat with the solvent-based polyurethane. The two finishes look quite different.
Also we think the polyurethane will likely perform better and be more resistant to scratching.

Very appreciative of any advice you can give.
Thank you
LeonieB

I would cut it back to bare timber and use either Feast Watsons Floorclear or Cabots Cabothane. Both products are excellent for your purpose, the floorclear being a harder finish used for floors. I've completed our redgum and brush box bathroom vanity with floorclear and turned out well.
Polyurethane is best applied to bare surfaces or surfaces which were previously coated with polyurethane. For the latter, only a light sanding is required for the new poly finish to key on.
Treatex being a wax/oil combination may not allow the poly to adhere the way it should and may peel or crack.

Cheers,
Evan