Thread: Jarrah finish

odies oil. comes from american but is dead simple to use, you just rub the stuff in, and just wipe it off after and hour or so.

it doesn't "coat" the wood but soaks into it to protect, but comes up great.

Originally Posted by havabeer69

odies oil. comes from american but is dead simple to use, you just rub the stuff in, and just wipe it off after and hour or so.

it doesn't "coat" the wood but soaks into it to protect, but comes up great.

Anything similar that is available locally? My research shows that's it's quite the one-size-fits-all solution, but it's just a mixture of different oils. Perhaps it can be made?

Also, is it glossy, or can become glossy with more coats, or do you have to put another protective layer on it?

You could consider Hard Burnishing Oil. It will give you a robust finish, with a semigloss shine, which can be bumped up to give a glossy finish. Looks good and makes the grain "pop". It involves using a Random Orbital Sander and several grits of sanding discs. The finish is highly resistant to stains, water, heat and wear and tear.

Regards,

Rob

Box_From_top_1.jpg

Originally Posted by yoboseyo

I know there has been a few threads for this in the past, but I'm new to finishing so there's a lot to digest.

I'm finishing a jarrah indoor stand. I'm looking for something that's going to make the relatively uniform grain "pop". I don't have a preference between oil-based and water-based finishes. I haven't decided whether I want a matte or glossy finish, and if gloss is just a protective layer on top of another finish, I'd consider it. I'm after something relatively doable for a beginner, but I'm not adverse to learning.

Any recommendations?

I always use danish oil with Jarrah. 3 coats wiped on then the excess wiped off, wait 24 hours between coats then 2 coats with wet and dry 600 grit sandpaper with the slurry wiped off, wait 24 hours between coats, wait a few days for the DO to cure then a coat of wax applied with 0000 steel work and buff. the result is always a glass like finish and the grain "comes to life"

BTW I make my own DO. 1/3 polyutherane, 1/3 turps, 1/3 boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Much cheaper than buying it ready made

If you want it shiney use the HBO and then finish with UBeauts EEE Ultra Shine. Sand to 600 grit before the HBO and apply HBO with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Not too much effort for a first class effect.

What's HBO other than a channel on pay TV?

HBO (Hard Burnishing Oi) is effectively Tung Oil with some secret herbs and spices. I have a lot of furniture that has been finishes in HBO. Some are now 15 years old and still as good as new. The degree of gloss is really up to you. It depends on the sanding and polishing regimen you follow. I've tested boiling water, red wine after 24 hours, boiling water and a number of other agonists on the finished result. It's my go to finish, though occasionally I use a different finish on peculiar timbers. Clean with "Spray and Wipe" type cleaners. It's robust, has a pleasant smell and is very forgiving.
IMG_0047.jpg

Originally Posted by LGS

You could consider Hard Burnishing Oil. It will give you a robust finish, with a semigloss shine, which can be bumped up to give a glossy finish. Looks good and makes the grain "pop". It involves using a Random Orbital Sander and several grits of sanding discs. The finish is highly resistant to stains, water, heat and wear and tear.

Regards,

Rob

Is the process coat, sand, coat, sand with finer grit, rinse, repeat until desired glossiness?

What grit do you go up to? My finished piece is sanded to 220. What RO disc grits are available? Carbatec has up to 320. Is it a big difference using RO for finishing and sanding by hand or 0000 steel wool?

Hi,
Typically,
1. I would dry sand 100 to,220,320 and 400. Then you can rub the surfaces down with a dry cloth. This will give a very smooth surface on which you can add the oil

2 Add the oil to the surface. The trick here is to have a wet but not saturated surface. I usually add the first coat, then wait 5 minutes and add some more oil, (but not too much) so that you get a wet surface

3. Begin sanding with the Random Orbital sander using the 400 grit pad. Sand until the oil has penetrated, giving a dirty looking pasty look. DO NOT WIPE THE SURFACE DOWN>Change to the next sanding pad. I use an up and back technique. 10 strokes up and 10 strokes back. The grits I use for burnishing the oil are 400,500, 800, 2000 and 4000. (This is the minimum number of pads. If you are not satisfied with the look, try using slightly less oil).

4. Proceed up through the grits to 400 DON'T WIPE DOWN THE SURFACE along the way..

5. When you reach the highest grit you want to use, you should have a surface that has blotches of oil and sanding residue.

6. Rub down the surface with a soft cotton cloth. (The bag of rags that Bunnings or Paint shops will have are fine).

7. Your surface should look like the Red Gum table I showed you in my last post. If it doesn't, then resand with the 4000 grit and rub down with a soft cotton cloth.

That's all there is to it. If it doesn't work, post your results and I'll try and solve the problem.

Regards,

Rob

Originally Posted by LGS

Hi,
Typically,
1. I would dry sand 100 to,220,320 and 400. Then you can rub the surfaces down with a dry cloth. This will give a very smooth surface on which you can add the oil

2 Add the oil to the surface. The trick here is to have a wet but not saturated surface. I usually add the first coat, then wait 5 minutes and add some more oil, (but not too much) so that you get a wet surface

3. Begin sanding with the Random Orbital sander using the 400 grit pad. Sand until the oil has penetrated, giving a dirty looking pasty look. DO NOT WIPE THE SURFACE DOWN>Change to the next sanding pad. I use an up and back technique. 10 strokes up and 10 strokes back. The grits I use for burnishing the oil are 400,500, 800, 2000 and 4000. (This is the minimum number of pads. If you are not satisfied with the look, try using slightly less oil).

4. Proceed up through the grits to 400 DON'T WIPE DOWN THE SURFACE along the way..

5. When you reach the highest grit you want to use, you should have a surface that has blotches of oil and sanding residue.

6. Rub down the surface with a soft cotton cloth. (The bag of rags that Bunnings or Paint shops will have are fine).

7. Your surface should look like the Red Gum table I showed you in my last post. If it doesn't, then resand with the 4000 grit and rub down with a soft cotton cloth.

That's all there is to it. If it doesn't work, post your results and I'll try and solve the problem.

Regards,

Rob

Cheers,

Where do you get 4k RO pads from?

Hi Rob,

A quick question if I may. When using HBO on smaller projects such as a keepsake box etc is it better (easier) to apply the HBO prior to cutting up the pieces, or on the finished project.

George

Also what brand of HBO do you use. Thanks.

Festool dealers, Sandpaper Man are two I know carry them. But you could check Bunnings I guess. (sorry about the pics. Though the dark red box lid is Jarrah after having oil applied.)

Regards,

Rob

You polished the cat ?
Just kidding - obviously not with that matte finish....

But Rob's demonstrated his method to me and it really works - the finish is adjustable for gloss and veeery hard wearing.

phil