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  1. #1
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    Default Linseed oil boiled or not boiled

    Can someone please tell me the difference between boiled linseed oil and raw linseed oil?

    Is it because boiled linseed oil is cooked so it is food safe? just joking.
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  3. #2
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    Boiled linseed oil used to be boiled in the olden days.
    These days chemical driers are used instead of cooking the oil, so they are not food safe.

    I buy raw linseed oil from a farm supplies so it won't have harmful additives in it . Or if you can buy it as Flaxseed oil from health stores.

    Walnut oil is foodsafe and is a drying oil.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
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    Bob, I was being silly on the "food safe" bit.

    Does boiled linseed oil dry faster? Do they work differently?
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  5. #4
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    Default

    Wongo, you would have found this

    http://www.arbortech.com.au/articles/013.html

    if you had done a search, this will reveal all

    Some useful stuff on that site.

    Cheers

    Fred

  6. #5
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    Cheers Fred, that was really helpful.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
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    Default

    Apparently, boiled linseed oil is not really boiled.......its just raw linseed oil with dryers in it so it will cure overnight, instead of over weeks.

    Yeh, so get the boiled stuff if you want to save some time.

    So, I've read......probably not a good idea to try and actually boil linseed oil. Could start a fire

  8. #7
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    Default

    I only use raw linseed but I mix it
    equal parts linseed , poly & turps. It dries very nicely
    The mix is really a danish oil clone.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  9. #8
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    Hallidays Point - the land of blackbutt and swamp mahogany
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    Default

    I seem to remember Neil advising readers of his book not to ever use boiled linseed. But I don't think he explained why - that's why it's stuck in my mind - I'm still curious.
    "... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)

  10. #9
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    OK I am going the Maloof mix for my chair

    It is equal part of tung oil, linseed oil and polyU. I am just not sure if I should use boiled or raw linseed oil.

    What should I do team?

    My guess is Maloof uses boiled linseed oil. He did say that his mix will dry overnight.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
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    its the poly that sets it and it don't make difference whetther you use raw or boiled
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  12. #11
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    Chertsey, Quebec, Canada
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    Default

    Thank you for this information. I always wonder what finish to put on. This is not yet a very known domain to me.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Wongo,

    Maloof's finish apparently uses boiled linseed oil.

    Tex

  14. #13
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    Thanks TexB.

    I have 2 more questions for you oil experts out there.

    q1: is raw tung oil same as pure tung oil
    q2: this is Maloof's mix

    Boiled Linseed Oil
    Raw Tung oil (not Waterlox, Dalys, or other tung oils containing resin additives)
    Semi-Gloss urethene varnish

    Can I use
    Boiled Linseed oil
    Pure Tung oil or Wattyl Estapol Tung oil
    Wattyl Estapol Satin PolyU
    ??

    PS I have a a bottle of boiled linseed oil, Wattyl Estapol tung oil and Wattyl Estapol Satin polyu alreday.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  15. #14
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    Use tung or linseed theres no need to mix, but you can if you want.
    The driers in the poly are what set it.

    Linseed is usually a bit yellower than tung, thats about the main difference.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  16. #15
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    Default

    The Maloof mix I have is:

    1/3 tung oil
    1/3 boiled linseed
    1/3 'glossy' varnish

    He says to use it on timbers not prone to splotching.
    "... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)

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