Thread: Low friction surface for router table top

I'd just wax the top, Kmart. Sand down to the highest grit you have patience for, and then wax and polish.

I love the UB wax, but for working surfaces you can get a bottle of beeswax et al, at Bunnies for $2. Splash it on.

Disappointingly, unless your tabletop is steel, it'll get scratched pretty quick. My pristine laminex now looks like its been in a bitch fight, and even the table (alum) insert is scratched. This is after 2 weeks.

Interesting. Would it not be beneficial in that case to apply a harder finish? 2-pac or something?

It won't get daily use, so I may to too worried about damaging the surface, but I'm going to be spending a fair bit of time getting this thing flat so I'd like it to last a lifetime if possible.

I'll have a look at the wax option anyway. Thanks Bodgy!

Yeah some two pack would be good. Make sure you seal the whole thing completly, so no moisture gets in and warps it. Wax on the two pack after sanding the top.

Sounds like a plan. Thanks again!

Or you could glue on some melenine (laminex-formica)

And cover up the lovely timber surface! This is something of a practice run for me also, I've never made a table top before. So far I'm doing really well (read: I haven't broken anything yet), so I think I'll stick with the timber finish and see how it goes.

If I'm ever making another one it would be simpler to use MDF and laminate, but this is an experiment as much as a practical tool.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Form ply
Cant beat it for that job.
Varnished will not last long as most horizontal surfaces in most sheds end up getting used for a bench and then in gets ruined.

Scotty

Laminate some .3mm stainless sheet on to the top, I wouldnt use a glued up hardwood/softwood top as the slightest seasonal movement will render it usless as a RT top, use a thick manmade substrate like mdf or chipboard.(and seal it well)

Hi

I have an MDF top finished with tung/poly and wax as per pat warner style router tables.

See here;


http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html

seems to work fine

goood luck

dazzler

If you want to keep the timber finish then a two part polyurethane is your best bet as Bodgy suggested. Give it a week to cure completely.

If you want to go better there is a clear finish they use on prestige motor vehicles (Lexus, BMW etc) which is virtually impossible to scratch even with a screwdriver. BUT its real expensive. If you know someone in the trade who has access to it or you can track down a user they may sell you a small amount as you won't need much for such a small area.

Thanks all for you thoughts. I definitely want to stick with a timber top just to see how well it holds together. The timber is recylced and so far it's cost me some joiner biscuits, some glue and my homemade panel clamps. If it works and looks good it's a cheap excersice, if not I've not lost anything in the process and learned a lot to boot.

A tougher surface is appealing, but half the point of a timber top is the ability to repair it. I can always sand it back, fill it and varnish again if the need arise.

Thanks people!

Use the recycled KD'TOak to form the router cabinet frame, sorry gunna say it again dont use wood for the top you'll find out the hard way otherwise.
All the worlds top router experts use MDF or chip.

Originally Posted by kman-oz

Thanks all for you thoughts. I definitely want to stick with a timber top just to see how well it holds together. The timber is recylced and so far it's cost me some joiner biscuits, some glue and my homemade panel clamps. If it works and looks good it's a cheap excersice, if not I've not lost anything in the process and learned a lot to boot.

A tougher surface is appealing, but half the point of a timber top is the ability to repair it. I can always sand it back, fill it and varnish again if the need arise.

Thanks people!

HI Kman

Sorry but I think you are going about this the wrong way. A solid timber top is great for thumping and assembly but it is critical for a router top to be DEAD flat. Pat Warner who seems to be a bit of a guru and makes sure his are flat to within 2thou.

Any slight movement in the top is transferred to whatever it is that you are routing.

Not a problem for rustic / outdoor furniture but not suitable for fine furniture.

My 2c....mdf, ply or aluminium. Top with Formica if you can afford it or just make it so that you can easily (and cheaply) replace the top.

cheers


dazzler

I'd use a sheet of Masonite as the top layer (the same stuff that some store-bought router table tops are made of, eg see here and use wax or SliverGlide