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  1. #1
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    Default Nth QLD silky oak bleeding sap/resin

    I bought some boards of 1/4 sawn Nth QLD silky oak over 2 years ago. Boards are 8mm thick. Beautiful figure. I've stored these flat and stickered in my shed ever sine I bought them, I'm in Newcastle area.
    Made a couple of boxes using the SO as lid inserts.
    Finished with shellac as sanding sealer/filler then WOP as clear coats.
    BUT the sap/resin keeps bleeding through in spots.
    I've tried metho, turps to wipe it off, but over a few weeks it bleeds again.
    Help!!!
    What can I do???
    Thanks
    Lyle
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  3. #2
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    What can you do?

    Hmmm, I wish I knew as I have encountered this issue myself at times. It's very similar to how some species of Beefwood react. It almost seems it has an endless supply of sap / resin with some boards. I have encountered it at times in boards, billets, and wood turning blanks as reclaimed and virgin wood from various sources, and all very well seasoned, with almost all that I can remember being from "old growth" trees, not young trees.

    In theory the wood should have reached equilibrium, but as wood reacts to changing environmental moisture content I suspect the expansion & contraction "pumps" the vascular structures in the wood - thus oozing the sap.

    My only solution is to perhaps try "pitch setting" as the timber industry does with species such as Caribbean (Pitch) Pine - heat to approx 140 - 180 F to set the pitch, which is typical of the high temperature kiln schedules used.

    Google "setting the pitch in pine" will give you some information. Setting Pitch - Wood Business explains the theory behind "pitch setting."

    ps, I can remember this being an issue for painters in the 1960's & '70's in FNQ when rough sawn weather boards were the preferred cladding for most homes built in that era. Get some hot dry weather then the home owners start complaining.
    Mobyturns

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  4. #3
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    Default

    Thanks for your quick reply. I'll do that research.
    I don't think I can heat these boxes to set the sap.
    I might have a look at the way I could do the remaining boards though.
    I wonder if a thin coat of resin might be enough to seal it in???
    Lyle.

  5. #4
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    Lyle, I've edited my post above so reload the page. As I wrote my reply it jogged my memory. My Dad was a builder in Cairns & I can remember we experienced this issue on a number of homes in that era.

    Mostly rough sawn weatherboards had a tapered profile and were not kiln dried and tended to have pretty high moisture content. They shrunk quite a bit after installation and the install method countered this. Profiled (chamfer) weather boards were kiln dried or at least very well air dried.
    Mobyturns

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