Thread: Oak Table - What should I do to bring it back to life?

Welcome Louise!

Congratulations on not attacking the table with sandpaper and for enquiring before letting loose on it with anything else! Can you tell if the table top is veneered? If so, using a water-based stripper may release some of the glue, causing the veneer to lift. If the top is veneered, simple meths and 00 steel wool would be my first approach.

If the top is of solid Oak, then you should be all right to proceed with the stripper. Once it's cleaned/stripped, come back and discuss the surface and I'm sure we can direct you further.

Thanks I think I would be too scared to just let loose on the table as it is my husband's and he was worried enough when I came home from Bunnings with the Citristrip!

Now I am unsure if it is veneered - how would I tell? I took some close up pics to see if that helps? I know we have one small (about 4cm) piece that seems to be slightly 'lifted' but I wouldn't have thought it veneer due to the sheer weight of the table - but hey I'm here to learn





Thanks again - help is most appreciated
Louise

That looks veneered to me (the top that is, the legs will be solid). Is Citristrip water-based, or can you clean up with turps/meths? If the latter, you could still strip it, otherwise I'd clean it off with plenty of meths, steel wool and rags. Please don't use any sandpaper - it's already been sanded by the cabinetmaker and further sanding will dull the detail and possibly go right through the veneer.

I would try and reattach the area of veneer that's lifting before stripping/cleaning the table. Fold a wad of wet kitchen towel so it's roughly the same size as the damaged area and set it on top for ten minutes to get a little moisture into the veneer/glue. While the water is doing its stuff, turn your electric iron on and support it upside down (in a vice, or with rolled up towels). Cut a piece of 18mm thick MDF slightly larger than the damaged area and sand the corners off a bit so it won't leave hard lines on the table. Place the bit of MDF on the upturned iron until it just begins to smoke/turn black and then quickly place it, hot side down, on the dampened veneer and set a really heavy weight on it until it's completely cooled down.

I would try this first. POLISH REVIVER

You have nothing to lose and it may save a lot of work.

Reviver will remove some of the colour and any built-up wax and dirt,but depending on the recipe, it may make further finishing a problem. If you drop Neil (our leader and manufacturer of all that is U-Beaut), he can advise you in full.

If you do want to take it all back and build up a light finish, then stripping or cleaning off with meths would be your best bet.

Polish Reviver will cost you $13.20. Stripping and refinishing will cost you way, way, way more and not only in $'s but also in time and possible heartache if you're not experienced, not to mention devalued antique valye.

If the reviver doesn't do the job bou will have lost $13.20. If it does you could save as much as $1,000 or more especially if you have to get someone to finish it for you.

No reason why you can't still strip it if the reviver doesn't work also no reason why you can't repolish over the top of it, although i certainly wouldn't be doing that.

Thanks everyone. I thinkI might give the Polish reviver a go - as I don't think it can harm the surface anymore than my 8 and 7 year olds have over their short years of mealtimes at it!!

I will let you know how it goes

Louise