Thread: Oil & Poly

Boz,

In no particular order:

I understand most Danish oil has poly in it already. Several people on the forum (including me) mix their own finish with various recipes (I use the Sam Maloof formula of 1/3 boiled linseed, 1/3 pure tung, 1/3 poly). Others use the Minwax Wipe on Poly or the various Organoil products. Not sure how to find an ingredients list for the Organoil products, but perhaps someone on the forum knows.

I've used the Organoil Danish on a few things, but the citrus odour seems to penetrate through the whole house from my garage/workshop, so I switched. End result was always good, and haven't had the issues you describe, but perhaps my stuff didn't get abused as much?

For the blackwood table, I'd go back with what you used originally. My .02 is that mixing finishes on furniture is usually not a good idea. (don't ask me how I know this)

Been a few years since I used a straight poly on bare timber, but I wasn't happy with it. Probably my application technique, but brushing it on and letting it dry as per the instructions on the can left me with a rough, plastic looking finish. Definitely did not get the richness of colour you get with DO.

Since DO probably has poly in it already, going back over it with poly is probably OK, but I'd definitely try it on some scrap first. However, the advantage of a DO over straight Boiled Linseed or other oil is that it is supposedly already 'toughened' with the polyurethane or some other polymer, so it shouldn't need a top coat of something else.

A wax on top of oil will take it from a soft satin finish to a lovely shine but may not add much toughness.

Others on the forum will know much more than I, and if you search for danish oil threads you may find some more helpful info.

Regards,

Tex