Thread: Organoil hard burnishing oil not what I hoped- what now?

I would recommend Feast Watson Floor seal and FW buffing oil.

Cheers
Michael

Why the floorseal? over satinproof?

Originally Posted by BozInOz

Why the floorseal? over satinproof?

Hi Boz,
two or three coats of floor seal just on its own is a good hardwearing finish for furniture and gives a subtle lustre. The buffing oil can be used as a maintenance coat when needed, maybe once a year or so.

Cheers
Michael

I don't think I'd be prepared to cover a table top in floor seal, it just sounds wrong (even thought you may be right)

Originally Posted by SilverSniper

I don't think I'd be prepared to cover a table top in floor seal, it just sounds wrong (even thought you may be right)

I don't know how to respond to this. Should I just and leave it at that
Should I say
or should I waste my time explaining why it is a good choice

Cheers
Michael

I used Organoil for my dining table, but it was affected by water rings etc, so I covered it with Ubeaut's Traditional Wax . Now 6 or so years later it does need another sand and seal, I was just going to use EEE and more Tranditional Wax.

simply looking for some informed advice, given that others appear to have encountered similar issues with the Organoil HBO.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...p/t-34200.html
some things finished with it.
http://picasaweb.google.com/home

many professional woodworkers use it.

Cheers
Michael

Hi mic-d

Feast Wastson floor seal sounds very interesting, Being a floor finish, it would be very durable, how does it go for coffee ring marks on tables, and for heat?

cheer's,kevin

G'day SilverSniper - Organoil pretty much always dulls off eventually it's an oil and oils don't shine. the shine comes from the super fine sanding the piece receives during the application of the oil.

The fix in general for Organoil is wax. Our Traditional Wax works a treat over the top of Organoil as Neil (the dai sensei one) said. EEE Ultra Shine also works a treat over it. But before anything else try giving it a buff with a swansdown mop or a lambs-wool buff or similar, you might be surprised what you get. It can also be lifted by using the same final piece of oil clogged abrasive you used to apply the oil with, but not many people actually keep this.

I've read on these forums that once you apply the wax, you can't go back and add more oil as the wax seals the timber. This is for new application not for for a finish that's been on for a while. people often stuff up a new finish then try to fix it by applying wax. Wrong. I also read that you shouldn't you apply wax to a finish you aren't already satisfied with. This again is for a new finish not for a finish like yours. You were obviously satisfied with the original finish. What you do now is upkeep, not more finishing, unless you got back and strip the whole thing, rub it out and start again. In that case the only thing you have to lose by trying the wax, is the price of the wax and a little time applying it. If it isn't what you want then it'll be removed with the preparation for the new finish.

DO NOT put floor seal or any other finish directly over the Organoil. the surface will need to be prepared again to accept the new coating.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers - Neil

PS you can use almost any wax over Organoil it doesn't have to be our Traditional Wax but avoid using beeswax as it will be harder to use especially in winter and attracts dust, finger marks and almost anything else that's floating by. Make sure the wax doesn't have silicon in it otherwise you'll have hells own trouble refinishing it if needed down the track.

Originally Posted by gumred

Hi mic-d

Feast Wastson floor seal sounds very interesting, Being a floor finish, it would be very durable, how does it go for coffee ring marks on tables, and for heat?

cheer's,kevin

It's pretty well impervious to water and alcohol and for heat also, but I wouldn't go putting a dish straight out of the oven on it!

Cheers
Michael

On a side note:
I've just finished re-oiling a bedside table finished with hard burnishing oil which had a white ring from water.
I sanded to 600, oil then next day I used a 1500 micromesh wet on oil on the ROS and results look excellent.
Plan is to wait a few weeks and use trad wax.... if it ever arrives from carbatec.... 9 days and counting....

thanks for some good tips,

I actually already re-oiled, as I thought that the problem may have been caused by the timber not having enough oil in it initially. I'll put the wax on in a few weeks once this coat has fully dried.

Good luck on your wait from Carba-tec. I have had things on order from their Canberra store for over a year!

Hi ya Silver Sniper
We use the Hardburnishing oil all the time as a finish on our commercially produced tops. It's great stuff though does require some maintenance. Neil pointed out it is an oil, it in fact has no plastic or other "additives" in it and as such the burnishing plays a big part on the finish. One concept to get stuck in your head with this product is that what doesn't soak in must come off. In other words, don't leave ANY oil on the surface. None of the very wise respondents have suggested a light wipe and buff with Woodsheen. This is the maintenance product for the Hardburnishing oil. Typically a light application every six to eighteen months is about right, depending on the timber, usage etc. We use paper towel under the random orbit sander for the final buff. Very absorbent. If you need to have a look at how we do it then come see us at Monaro Timber and we can show you. I have stock of Woodsheen on the shelf if you need. Suggest you don't rush to switch products until you have explored the options.
Cheers
Shaun Hayward
Monaro Timber
Fyshwick