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  1. #1
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    Default How would this be for an outdoor timber finish (or table/bench tops)?

    Just bought some nitrile disposable gloves from these people (excellent service with next day delivery). They included a catalogue and I got to thinking about the Diamond clearcoat finish. I wonder how it would go as a finish for outdoor furniture etc?

    http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/produ...ish-clearcoat/

    The website claims:
    • tough & hard (I'm sure that I saw somewhere a claim of the world's toughest, which is a big call)
    • self levelling
    • high temp resistance (for table or bench tops)
    • UV stability (outdoor furniture)
    • chemical resistance (workbenches)can be used on metal
    • permanently flexible
    • can be used over paint and metal
    • quick recoat 1-2 hours
    • Aussie made


    The UV stabilisation caught my eye, but I don't if this just refers to the coating itself or whether it blocks significant UV from the timber - maybe both?

    Actually I just now went to the instructions page:
    http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/diamo...-instructions/

    and it talks about clear coating wood (but that's all it says).

    Cleanup and dilution is using their proprietary thinners for which they recommend:
    IF SPRAYING, ALWAYS WEAR AN AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR AND EYE PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved organic vapor particulate respirator.

    It's a gloss finish which won't appeal to everyone, but that can be knocked back with a 3000 grit (or whatever) sanding.

    Nor is it cheap at $79 per litre, $260 per 4 litres, $1050 per 20 litres, but if it's as good as they claim it could be well worthwhile.

    Maybe a coat or two of oil first, and use this after polymerisation?

    Any thoughts?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Maybe a coat or two of oil first, and use this after polymerisation?

    Any thoughts?

    No sure it would go over it.

    Read the web site stuff, mentioned only painted surfaces or metal.......

    May have to make an enquiry....

  4. #3
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    There are some pretty Amazzzing coatings out there.

    Some of them are chemically pretty nasty too.

    There is this new generation of two pack pollyeurathanes....serioulsy tough as hell.

    Most top spec piant companies have one of these products.

    The standard demonstration is to paint two pieces of pipe with the stuff, then bang em togther.

    Seen this claim in several paint brocures and the bloke down the local refinish suppliers did it in front of me.

    I was convinced, I baught a litre of a special red tint that someone did not pick up and a knock down price...$50 ish a litre....still not cheap.

    Yeh this stuff is tough, I repainted several of my ladders about 12 months ago with the stuff.
    It sure ain't indebloodystructable.....but it is tough...I've been banging these ladders on and off the truck for 12 months and yeh there are some scrapes.....but most of it is still gleeming gleeming gleeming.
    and that is on both fibreglass and aluminium.


    As for thr UV stability.....remember one thing...and it does not change and it never will......there is no such thing as a long term out door, UV stable, clear finish.

    Get a top spec opaque finish and with a bit of luck and good apllication it will still be looking good in 20 or 30 years in full sun.

    The problem with clear is...that it is clear.....the light all of it, (visable, UV and infrared) will get deep into the clear finish to some extent and degrade both the finish and the material underneath.
    Most clear finishes fail when the material underneath or the adhesion begins to fail.

    The UV stablisers inhibit the transmission of light thru the finish, protecting the finish and the surface below......but they simply can not exclude all light or UV.

    The marine market is the most demanding on clear finishes....they have to survive in full sun and weather with the addition of salt.

    Many of the boaties that like wooden bits finished clear are spending big on these top spec clears........they still have to refinish regularly.......but they may be taking the time between revarnishing from every damn 12 months ( or less) running out to 5 years pluss......AND they tend to refinish while the product is still looking good....like every time or every other time they slip the boat to scrape the bottom


    Traditionally, if a bloke had a flash looking boat with a lot of bright work( varnished wood) that looked good....he always had a brush in his hand.

    Some of these new top spec clears will also survive pretty well on polished brass.......so these guys don't have to be rubbing their brass every weekend.

    They take it all off every few years,( when they slip the boat) send it out to be polished and coat it with one of these funky two pack clears.



    Will this stuff work on timber?...from what understand....HELL YEH....best applied direct so the resins get intimate with the wood.....they are generally claimed as self priming.....almost anything you would put under it would be an inferiour resin.

    Would it be good for outdoor furniture......I recon any of these finishes would be better than almost anything else you could put on outdoor furniture for durability.

    I've seen some of this sort of stuff and it is glass clear and hard......maybe not as optically pleasing as top spec rubbed finish.....but pretty damn impressive given the durability

    AND nasty....hell yeh...like all two pack paints.....it will be gassing cianide or some such.
    Chemically they are sort of a cross between pollyeurathane and superglue ( cyanoacrilate).

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  5. #4
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    Brett

    Did you get these gloves?

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KBS-Work-...item233c54f023

    We are on our fourth box (bought two last time). And as you said the service is superb:
    Truly excellent.

    I am not keen on solid finishes for outdoor furniture and prefer the oils. There are many excellent products around, but I always use the Organoil Garden Furniture product.

    organoil_internal_r8_c16.jpg

    http://www.organoil.com.au/gardenfurnoil/

    The oils are so quick easy to apply and more importantly re-apply. I rather like the distinctive smell of Organoil too, which lasts a couple of days.

    However, I have no specific knowledge of the KBS product.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #5
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    Yes Paul, those gloves - in bright orange.

    I've used the Garden Oil before but not on particularly high finish garden furniture (Nursie's ladder, and a few other similar things)
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yes Paul, those gloves - in bright orange.
    Originally I bought a box of black for me and orange for Leanne. When we re-ordered Leanne asked for the the black gloves as she has tried my black gloves. She said they were tougher and easily outperformed the orange gloves .

    I thought she would like orange .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #7
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    They're supposed to be identical except for colour. Anyway, they're a whole bunch stronger than the, ahem, "examination" gloves I've been using, and should have much more resistance to Danish oil et al.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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