"A Polishers Handbook" is totally useless...........

**Neil** · 15th July 2003, 11:28 PM

Colin - Yep.

AA - Have you got a really, really, really good brush, like a camel hair polishers or artists mop? If not, you should get one as they are invaluable and you really do nead one to get a good result, either that or you need to learn to french polish.

Don't use it neat. Don't brush it on like you are painting a wall or scrubbing down the deck of a ship. Don't rush it.

Do sand finely, to at least 600 grit or finer, (I usually sand up to 800 before the first coat then give it a very quick wipe over with 1200 after it is dry, then apply the second and subsequent coats if required.) Do use a couple of thin coats in preference to 1 thick one. Thin to 50-50 for the first coat (with metho) and try that.

Just a couple of quick tips.

Cheers - Neil

P.S. Recently I had a man rang me saying that the used turps to thin our Hard Shellac. I said he was nuts and that it shouldn't work. He was emphatic that it worked brilliantly, so I tried it and he was right. It brushed on amazingly and seemed to work a treat.

This only works because we use pure alcohol (Ethanol) in our shellac mixes. This will not work with shellacs from most other manufacturers as they do not use pure alcohol and have a small amount of water in the polish which would elimenate the turps from the mix.

I hasten to add here, that I have reservations about the toughness and longevity of the final finish when turps is used, as it really is an unknown quantity. However if anyone has done this in the past and the finish has lasted well I would like to know.

If you are silly enough to want to try it for yourself then only use a very small amount of turps (mineral not gum) and try it on something that is not of any great value.

**Asquared** · 22nd July 2003, 02:48 AM

Neil

Thanks for your tips. Are they relevant to both regular shellac and your hardened shellac? No, I don't have a good quality brush - but I will get one.

Because the stuff dries so quickly I am inclined to apply additional coats in quick succession. Is this a dumb idea? How long should the piece dry before applying additional coats?

Now I don't want to offend anyone's sensibilities here but I have ended up with a stack of pine slabs milled from an old tree that had to be removed from a vineyard down near Margaret River. The price was right and I quite like the look of this stuff. So I made a table and plan to make a second. I used the hard shellac on that piece and its OK but not a work of art - the fininsh that is, the table is pretty neat even if I say so myself. I sanded it to about 320 grit only - seems to me going much finer on pine isn't worth it. Any thoughts on sanding pine and using shellac on it??

**Tasman** · 31st July 2003, 12:12 AM

Well i have polished antiques with shelac but now found that using a thinners based spray clear using about four coats for a start then making a rubber and just use thinners with the french polishing method then more coats of spray and polishing till you get the achieved finish.
Did a cedar writing desk in 3 hours grain filled and all and the customer was over the moon with the job as he wanted it french polished.

Cheers Tasman

**ajjsyd** · 31st July 2003, 01:23 AM

And pray tell where does one purchase said book.

Amazon & Dymocks com.au are bereft of such a title as A Polishers Handbook.

Kool Bananas

**ajjsyd** · 31st July 2003, 01:25 AM

Ah! trick is to read the whole.... forum.

Cheers

**zymurgy** · 10th August 2003, 12:22 PM

Polishers Mop.

Neil, I have read your description of a polishers mop, but still unsure of what it looks like. Searching web doesn't seem to help.

Can you post an image of one? Do you know of source?

Gordon.

**Neil** · 11th August 2003, 02:29 AM

Below is a scan of an "Artists Water Colour Mop" and here is a link to NEEF Australia http://www.neef.com.au/ and this one is to their "Camel Oval Wash Brush" http://www.neef.com.au/brushes/389-440-450B-460.htm

Hope this helps.

I prefer to use Camel Hair. But there are a number of others that work just as well. Squirrel is probably the best for polishing, whilst sable is the dearest. If you wipe it across your cheek and it feels like you have been kissed by an angel or brushed by a cloud, it should do the job nicely.

Hoope this helps.

Cheers - Neil

**zymurgy** · 11th August 2003, 04:30 PM

Neil,

Got myself a 1/2" squirrel for $15.00 (40% off).

As I ran the 1 1/8" squirrel across my cheek, it felt like I was being kissed by an angel, then I looked at the price and thought I was being screwed by the devil

$142.00

If the 1/2" pans out (I'll mainly be using it on some 1" rails for a dining chair), I may consider the wider one for later projects.

I guess you get what you pay for, but it was a slight shock.

Gordon.

**Neil** · 11th August 2003, 04:54 PM

Why do you think my preferance is for Camel Hair?

1.5" for around $17.50

**BrianT** · 11th August 2003, 05:11 PM

Hey Neil,

These brushes are a bit of a worry - wot with angels and clouds floating around.

Checked out the Neef site and they flog 'SMOOCHING BRUSHES '

Having been around for a year or two, I never realised I needed one. Is there something some of us have missed out on.. or is it best we just use our imagination.

Your expert knowledge/use of said brush would be appreciated

Cheers

Brian @ Burra

**ozwinner** · 11th August 2003, 05:12 PM

Hi Neil
Angel or Fairy, I always seem to get the two mixed up............lol
Cheers, Allan :eek:

Originally posted by Neil
Below is a scan of an "Artists Water Colour Mop" and here is a link to NEEF Australia http://www.neef.com.au/ and this one is to their "Camel Oval Wash Brush" http://www.neef.com.au/brushes/389-440-450B-460.htm

Hope this helps.

I prefer to use Camel Hair. But there are a number of others that work just as well. Squirrel is probably the best for polishing, whilst sable is the dearest. If you wipe it across your cheek and it feels like you have been kissed by an angel or brushed by a cloud, it should do the job nicely.

Hoope this helps.

Cheers - Neil

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