preparing the wood for finish by sanding with acetone.

**grainspeaks** · 18th November 2008, 02:34 PM

I have done quite a some finishing and restoration of furniture and we would often sand with acetone, sometimes adding something to condition it. I don't know what people put in it to condition it, and I've never had a problem using acetone to clean wood with fine grit, so long as I polish it right afterward. But the fact they found it necessary to condition it makes me wonder.

I'm about to finish a piece of jarrah that is all curved surfaces. I've noticed that in working it, despite my best efforts, it has picked up some dirt. Normally I would be confident in just cleaning it with acetone and then oiling it up, but I'm actually wanting to go for a very light (colored) finish - was thinking water-based poly, or if not, maybe wipe-on poly.

As it is more art - or concept piece, I'm not concerned with the durability of the finish at this point - just the integrity of the raw wood.

Can I sand/scour with acetone, sans oil, cover with (say) wipe-on poly, and not expect to much damage to the more detailed edges? It is a practice piece, so it doesn't matter if I mess up, but I thought I'd see if anyone has any anecdotal evidence to share.

**ubeaut** · 18th November 2008, 04:40 PM

You could try finishing it with a couple of weak coats of Dewaxed White Shellac. Won't change the colour any more than wetting the timber with water. Goes on easily with a rag and can be buffed with EEE-Ultra Shine to an almost sensual feel and look.

**grainspeaks** · 18th November 2008, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by ubeaut

You could try finishing it with a couple of weak coats of Dewaxed White Shellac. Won't change the colour any more than wetting the timber with water. Goes on easily with a rag and can be buffed with EEE-Ultra Shine to an almost sensual feel and look.

A few things...

1) I thought that poly gave the clearest coat, in that it was non-penetrating? Am I wrong? This is just a little 4" round, pole that I've cut a smooth double helix into, but it has really nice streaks from grey to pink to darker reds. I was hoping to preserve that contrast as much as possible. Really, I just want to see what happens, but I do have that in mind.

2) I've been meaning to get around to using that dewaxed white shellac, for sure. But, don't have any yet and I'm ready to finish it soon... because...

3) I don't want it getting dirty... which it has, and I'm currently trying to clean up. Which leads me back to the question about using plain acetone to do so. Do you think it would be ok to clean with acetone and use the white shellac right afterward (after it dries, of course)? And I'm still wondering about doing that with poly, too.

**grainspeaks** · 19th November 2008, 06:12 PM

Well, I've had success! So, I got a little sloppy and forgot to wash my hands, and as I was using my left hand to turn the piece around, well, it got all yucky looking. So, when it came time for sanding, I went ahead and gave it a good twice over with 60grit. Then I used a clean cloth to rub with acetone, with the grain, not letting it soak too too much. Sanded three or more times with 60 grit (yeah, it was rough to start with) wiped again. Continued in this fashion. I'm now up to a whopping 80 grit and it is nice and clean. I'm now using lab gloves to protect my hands, as the dust is a lot more rough on them.

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