Preventing staining when filling

**Marcus** · 13th December 1999, 04:42 PM

OK folks,

The table top is now glued up and the AV203 from Syntec seems to be as good as advertised. I am going to fill the sap holes in the table top with a black epoxy but before I do, I am trying to figure out how to avoid staining the timber surrounding the holes when the inevitable expoxy overflow occurs.

I have heard a couple of suggestions about preventing this but nothing concrete or usuable so far (the masking tape option really isn't viable given the variation in the sap hole shapes and sizes) - does anyone have an idea? Is it worth spraying a lacquer over the area first then rubbing this back after epoxying?

Regards

Marcus

**RETIRED** · 13th December 1999, 09:26 PM

Gooday.

We do it a little different than stoppers.

After the initial or rough sanding we fill all holes with putty, filler or whatever and the subsequent sanding procedures remove any over fill.

Most fillers will not adhere to laquers or stains and they rely on a certain amount of penetration into the timber to "stick".

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

**S Hayward** · 13th December 1999, 09:41 PM

G'day Marcus
I want to see photos of this table once it's done. I feel like I know it intimately already!! Glad to hear the 203 worked well for you. I am with , put the resin in after a rough sanding or even before any sanding. You should get the stain out as it doesn't usually go down too deep. A tip for sanding. Cross grain sanding removes material faster. With a coures belt, run across the table first to get it flat then work with the grain to finish off.
Good luck.
Regards
Shaun

**ubeaut** · 14th December 1999, 12:22 AM

I want to see the photo's too. Preferably a series from start to finish.

If you can scan one or more, e-mail them to me and I will put them on the BB for you. This baby belongs to many contributors and they probably all want to see some happy snaps.

Cheers
Neil

P.S. I would use a weak white shellac mix over the entire top, brushing it into the sap holes as well. This will seal any sap and resign and give the epoxy something to key to. It will also enable you to sand off the over fill later with ease. The lacquer would only searve to make a mess of the abrasive and hinder the sanding process.

Don't use sanding sealer as you will probably find the epoxy won't stick too well to it.

I would probably also be inclined to use clear casting resign rather than epoxy. It polishes to a brilliant hard finish like glass. I have had more success with this than epoxy. (just my thought)

[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 14 December 1999).]

**Marcus** · 14th December 1999, 10:37 PM

OK, I'll bow to pressure and take some piccies and put together a .html page for you all to see my skills, or lack thereof!

You have to promise not to laugh though...

Marcus

**RETIRED** · 15th December 1999, 07:10 AM

We will

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

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